2020 Julian Haart Riesling “J.J.” Kabinett, Mosel, Germany
Although Julian has the resume most people can only dream of (he has studied with Egon Müller, Klaus Peter Keller and Werner Schönleber; that's like the German wine equivalent of learning to draw under Picasso, da Vinci, and Ingres), the fact is that this resume is an easy, glossy headline that simplifies a much more complicated story. We have met few more serious, more thoughtful and detail-oriented growers. There is so much talent here and Julian is relentless. He will be a very, very important grower. Starting with a microscopic 0.25ha plot of terraced vines in the famous Goldtröpchen vineyard, Julian has finally bought a few more parcels and is renting some serious parcels from his uncle. The overall style is clearly a type of Mosel-hommage to Keller. The wines showcase a glossy, super-pure fruit that shrieks across the palate with a pushing, sharply delineated acidity. Pulverized slate, polished to a fine dust, coats everything. The hierarchy at Haart is based on Burgundy. There is the appellation-level "Moselle” (read: Bourgogne) and the village-level Piesporter. As with last year, we also bought and entire Fuder of Julian’s younger-vine juice, the aptly-named “1,000L.” Quantities on all wines limited.