Natural Refreshment in Cheverny

03/24/22

On the map of the natural wine world, dotted with its unquestionable capitals, the postage stamp-sized AOCs of Cheverny and Cour-Cheverny are firmly marked. 

We don't say this lightly: the area serves as an absolute foundation of modern natural winemaking. Thanks to an uncompromising crew of natural winegrowers who believed in the potential of their home terroirs, these Loire Valley sub-regions are known for more than their iconic castles. 

But what makes these wines truly stand out is their bouvabilité, a quality that is more than just glou glou pleasure or gastronomic texture; it's satisfying in a way that is good for the earth, good for your body–in a way, nutritious.

KEY GROWERS IN CHEVERNY

In the early 1990s, there was no natural wine “scene” in the way we think of it today. There were, however, assorted outposts of people pushing the limits of viticulture and low-intervention winemaking: chief among them Thierry Puzelat of Clos du Tue-Boeuf in Cheverny, who believes in terroir as a truth-teller. In his words, “you’d have to be crazy and pretentious to think you can dominate your terroir and its history.”

Puzelat’s humble approach reveals wines that are pure and lively; his supple and dangerously drinkable reds were among the earliest examples of natural wine and they remain some of the finest.  PUZELAT →

Just 11 kilometers east of Clos du Tue-Boeuf is Philippe Tessier, another trailblazing winegrower who has been farming organically since 1998. Like Puzelat, he works in tandem with nature to capture honest expressions of his terroirs and the indigenous varieties which capture a true sense of this place–these are wines which can only be from Cheverny. In addition to his succulent Pinot and Gamay-based reds, and classically mineral Loire whites from Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay; Tessier also offers bright, crisp whites from Menu-Pineau and the singular Romarantin, an indigenous grape which is incredibly unique to the sub-region of Cour-Cheverny.  TESSIER →

THE CHEVERNY STYLE

With charm and drinkability, these are wholly sessionable wines. Cheverny is made to be drinkable all day–point du jour (as one of Tessier's cuvées is named) translates to daybreak, and these wines are surely the beverage of choice fueling the days in Cheverny. They are generally unfiltered, a little cloudy; but the aromatics are still clean and purely delicious.

If you enjoy Beaujolais, the Gamay/Pinot blends of Cheverny will be a juicy, energizing change of pace with whole-cluster inclusion and high acid winemaking but in a cooler, sandier terroir. If you enjoy minerally Chenin or Chablis on the riper end, Cour Cheverny's Romorantin will bring new variety to your rotation.

We're grateful for this pantheon of natural vignerons in the region whose influential work has united fellow winegrowers and wine drinkers around these joyful wines.