“Looking at these vineyards; at first I was afraid. . . But you have to climb the vineyards, you have to push, and you have to climb up within yourself as well.” – Julien Renard (via Source Material)

Julien's steep Lower Mosel slope 📷 via Vom Boden

For many of us, our first taste of Julien’s wine was in our Navy Yard space last year at an event celebrating the launch of Stephen Bitterolf’s retrospective book, and the existential revolution happening in Germany’s Mosel. On an evening studded with thoughtful discussion and (many) very special wines (Keller! Wasenhaus! Mag of Silvaner!), there was a surprise standout: Julien Renard’s 2021 Riesling.

As we've come to learn about Julien, it’s not just about making some of the most exciting wines coming out of the Mosel; it’s a journey of self-discovery.

His 22ers are here, and we’re so proud to share this (v limited) release with you. Below!

Julien’s story is as unexpected as his wines. We have a soft spot for those who bring new perspective to a region from the outside – and Julien was not born into wine; he grew up in Cologne and pursued a career in theater. But, feeling unfulfilled, he was bit by the natural wine bug and even moreso, the incredibly hard labor that goes into growing and making wine. Cold calls to VDP estates yielded one response: from Winningen’s Heymann-Löwenstein. From here he became engrossed in the Lower Mosel, finally landing his own parcels in 2017.

With just one hectare, he’s quickly (and tbh, quietly) become a winemaker coveted by Paris wine lists, routinely selling out inventory that’s just gone to barrel. ‘22 is Julien’s second release in the US, and if you tasted ‘21 you were lucky.

Alongside other Mosel mavericks (see also: shop faves Dostert and Lardot), he's part of a movement that's redefining German wine; in his case, on the Lower Mosel’s extremely steep (like, steep-for-the-Mosel, steep) slopes. That’s part of the attraction for him; the brutal landscape is meditative.

 

Based in Winningen where he first cut his teeth, he works with an organic, no-till philosophy, all done by hand. He picks early for high acidity, followed by gentle foot treading and basket press. Parcels are fermented individually then set to rest for ~2 years in a variety of used wood vessels, where they quietly simmer on the lees before being bottled with minimal sulfur.

The wines are contemplative, complex with an incredibly high thread count. Bone dry, yet astonishingly low abv (all three wines below clock in at 10.5%).

Across grape varieties there’s a common thread of taut green citrus and salty mineral cut; but they're never bracing or uncomfortable to drink. There’s balance here and, honestly – they’re just a thrill to drink.

2022 JULIEN RENARD MÜLLER-THURGAU $40
From a not-so-steep parcel in one of Winningen's side valleys, made with a touch of skin contact which gives this energetic wine some real personality.

2022 JULIEN RENARD WEISSBURGUNDER $45
Countered by plush aromatics, it's a Pinot Blanc which showcases Julien's grasp of high thread count texture and laser-precise acidity.

2022 JULIEN RENARD RIESLING $45
From his steepest parcels, including Grand Cru fruit from Hamm and Rottgen. Almost-smoky citrus fruit that's incredibly textured, mineral, and sizzling with acidity.