“These parcels don’t have to be famous, they just need to have something to say…” – Andrew Nielson

Last year, we had the pleasure to meet and taste with Andrew Nielson, who along with his wife Emma makes the wines of Burgundy-based micro-négoce Le Grappin.

It was our favorite type of visit: inspiring wines, made by a captivating winemaker, with a wonderful story to tell.

Originally from Australia, Andrew was working in publishing when he had his first taste of Dujac’s Clos de la Roche. More than just a glass of wine, this was a life moment; he felt viscerally hooked into wine (hence, “grappin!”).

Andrew and Emma quickly pivoted their lives to winemaking, and Andrew spent the late aughts intentionally working with winemakers focused on Pinot Noir. From California, to Australia, to New Zealand; and finally a chance connection that led Andrew to working at Domaine Simon Bize.

The time at Bize opened the couple’s eyes to the range of fruit available in Savigny, the final inspiration they needed in 2011 to establish their own micro-négoce out of Fanny Sabre’s old cellar in the heart of Beaune.

They look for sites with incredible expression, fodder for single parcel wines; and though the vineyards are leased and the fruit purchased, Andrew gravitates to farmers who are already practicing, or willing to practice, organic and biodynamic methods. He partners with them on farming decisions, all pushing for the maximum expression of fruit. Fruit quality is especially critical, as the Grappin wines don’t shy away from ripeness. 

Often, the grapes are harvested a week after most of the Nielsons' contemporaries pick, in order to achieve “the joyousness in the wine,” as Andrew calls it.

The cellar work is especially intentional, and done with care. It starts with a careful hand sort, berry by berry, usually followed by some whole cluster fermentation (always using native yeasts) and then a regimen of concrete and mostly used wood (very little new) until bottling. While not decidedly zero/zero, sulfur, fining and filtering are only done when deemed necessary for the cuvée.

Andrew has an ebullient presence; his visit on Fulton filled the room with both laughter and a zen-like, calming energy.

The wines follow: these are joyful, lively bottles that showcase the beautiful (and in some cases, under-celebrated) terroirs of Savigny-lès-Beaune and Beaujolais – all made with the hopes of hooking others into wine the way Andrew and Emma were 🙌

THE WINES

Note: the wines are separated into two marques: Le Grappin for the coveted Côte d'Or parcels, and Du Grappin for the Beaujolais, Aligoté and Mâcon bottlings which (while just as thoughtfully made) bring a more Vins de Soif vibe.

DU GRAPPIN

2022 Du Grappin Bourgogne Aligoté $35
From the organically farmed parcel 'Les Enceints' in Mâcon-La Roche Vineuse. The south-facing, high elevation plot allows for cooler nights, helping preserve the freshness. Raised in concrete for 11 months. Delightful '22 Aligoté, bright fresh lemon with lovely texture!

2022 Du Grappin Fleurie-Poncié $33
Not your average Fleurie! Past vintages of the wine have been shown at Fête du Beaujolais and won praise from critics such as Jancis Robinson. This high elevation plot consists of pink granite, quartz and mica soil. Using the winemaking philosophy of Jules Chauvet, the wine went into concrete tanks whole clusters with CO2 cover for 21 days undisturbed. Remarkably aromatic in the glass, with florals, black pepper and herbs de Provence.

2023 Du Grappin Beaujolais Villages Nature $25 / magnum $54
The most vin du soif of the Grappin wines! From the 'Les Raisses' site in Lancie, located directly next to Fleurie. This wine also employs Chauvet's techniques, allowing even this simple wine to express much more than the sum of its parts!

LE GRAPPIN

2021 Le Grappin x Vin Noé Bulles, $54
A one-off product of the difficult 2021 vintage. 50/50 blend of Aligoté from Andrew’s Mâcon-La Roche Vineuse parcel, and direct-press organic Pinot Noir from Vin Noé’s Mercurey vines. This wine spends 18 months on its lees before disgorgement; no dosage or sulfur is added, and it was rested an additional year a bottle before release. A delight for anyone who enjoys complex bubbles, with a touch of oxidation next to ripe orchard and strawberry fruit delivered by a powerful, tight-knit mousse.

2022 Le Grappin 'Les Seurrets' Bourgogne Côte d'Or $46
This lieu-dit used to sit inside the borders of Pommard and now rests on the plain just below where the line is drawn. The soils consist of dolomitic alluvial marls and coarse limestone which Andrew believes adds the blue fruited character to this wine. There is a very delicate extraction of fruit here, which shines through in the ethereal but aromatic wine it makes.

2022 Le Grappin Savigny-Lès-Beaune Rouge $70
From a parcel in the village of Aux Fournaux, this wine tells the story of just 36 rows! Familiar with these plots from the time at Simone Bize, this wine showcases exactly the story of Grappin: it feels like Aux Fournaux, but with more finesse and elegance.

2022 Le Grappin 'Les Greves' Beaune Premier Cru $93
Less than 1% of Greves is planted to Chardonnay, and Le Grappin is one of only four producers who make wine from it. Grapes are pressed over several hours before a cold oxidation of the juice, which is then racked into 550 barrels and glass demijohn for 18 months with no lees stirring or further racking. The result is a phenolic wine with a balance of ripe citrus and sea salted almond skin. Young for sure but a special bottling indeed.

2022 Le Grappin 'Les Boucherottes' Beaune Premier Cru $95
The vines here are located between Pommard’s ‘Clos des Mouches’ and Beaune’s ‘Les Epenottes’, in iron rich and limestone soils. The finest of Grappin’s reds, there is a belying richness to the bouquet of red fruit, while the tannins finish silky on the finish. 

SHOP ALL LE GRAPPIN