We've got Garnacha on our mind this month – it's the theme of this month's wine club, and the focus of a new project that shines a light on just how good it can be in the hands of an icon.

Alfredo Arribas’ transition from world-class architect to trailblazing biodynamic grower began in Montsant, where his work captured fresh, lifted flavors rarely seen in the appellation. Shorter macerations, minimal oak, and inspired farming defined this work he began in 2001.

Now, more than twenty years later (and after a lot of trial and error in the region) Arribas brings that same ethos to his newest project in the cooler, northern reaches of Priorat. For the first time in the U.S., we’re thrilled to highlight his El Mas de L’A.

Though El Mas de L’A is fairly new, it's in many ways the culmination of the work Arribas started in Priorat 18 years ago.

He built a winery (Clos del Portal) from scratch in the area's southern stretches in 2007 near the town of El Lloar. His vines here are planted in the region's famed tiger-striped licorella soils; this dry, sun soaked area produces powerful deeply structured wines which sit in contrast to Arribas’ lifted work in Montsant.

Fast forward a decade to 2017, and Arribas began pushing the boundaries of what Priorat could be with his wildly experimental ‘InStabiles’ series. He bottled wines without sulfur, skipped vintage labels (opting for edition numbers), and played with every vessel imaginable – from amphora to ceramic eggs. We tasted many of these releases and his 2017 'No. 6' was a favorite in Leon Circle (our wine club). This was Priorat on the edge – questioning, risk-seeking – and it ultimately served as the launch pad for his most refined work yet: El Mas de L’A.

Arribas has found himself in a completely different zone with El Mas de L’A: in the coolest northern stretches of Priorat, it's perched above the appellation at 500 meters.

And, adding to its cooling effects, the area isn’t strictly slate. There is licorella, but its mixed in with clay that cools the soil and manages water-stress in ways that Clos del Portal’s soils cannot. The one main similarity here to the prior work: biodynamics.
Arribas farms biodynamically across all of his holdings, which here are focused on mixed co-plantings of Garnachas: the highly local strain of Garnacha Peludo, Negra, Blanc and Gris. Dotted in is a tiny bit of Pinot Noir, used in one cuvée.

In the cellar, Arribas returns to the gentle hand that first made him famous. He often co-ferments the Garnachas—in some cases of all shades—in neutral vessels, avoiding any use of new wood or sulfur during vinification and élevage. All for capturing high elevation aromas and fruit in their most pure form. And, deliciously, he doesn't shy from the natural power of Priorat; rather, he frames it with a gossamer texture instead of wood tannins.

The final results are some of the most elegant we’ve ever come across from Priorat, in both reds and whites. Lovers of Terroir Al Límit and/or the more elegant bottlings from Partida Pedrer should make it a priority to check out what he’s doing here.

WHITES:

2022 El Mas de L'A 'Quars' Priorat DOCa, Spain $48
Partially destemmed Garnacha Blanca fermented in concrete, aged in 500L French oak for 10 months. Saline, Mediterranean, and an extraordinarily mineral expression of Priorat's powerful soils.

2022 El Mas de L'A 'Les Margues' Priorat DOCa, Spain $74
His most special bottling; Garnacha Blanca and Garnacha Gris briefly macerated and fermented in stainless steel, aged in 500L French oak for 12 months. Like 'Quars' it is saline and powerfully mineral; with especially complex aromatics (green olives, marconas) and an extra long finish. A seriously stunning take on Grenache-based white wine.

REDS:

2021 El Mas de L'A 'Racorell' Priorat DOCa, Spain $45
Co-planted and co-fermented field blend of Garnacha Negra, Garnacha Peluda, and Garnacha Gris, fermented with half whole clusters in concrete and aged in a mix of wood for 12 months. Dark fruited, sanguine, delicious.

2022 El Mas de L'A 'Lo Noir' Priorat DOCa, Spain $65
Destemmed Garnacha with 5% Pinot Noir from older vines, fermented and raised for 15 months in 500L French oak. Roasted strawberry vibes with beautifully integrated tannin.

SHOP EL MAS DE L'A