With a restock of István Bencze's benchmark Pinot Noir, we're revisiting his work – which remains some of Central Europe's most important.

If names like Tscheppe, Tauss and Nestarec sit in your rotation, Bencze is an essential addition. Overlooking Hungary's romantic Lake Balaton, this biodynamic producer is our standard bearer for Hungarian wine.

2022 Bencze Pinot Noir, Balatonmelleki, Hungary $33

István's Pinot Noir sits on an absolutely electric mix of soils, with volcanic basalt dusted over sandstone and limestone subsoils in his estate vineyard, Rókalyuki. Farmed biodynamically, he planted these vines in 1999.

Destemmed and fermented in 1000L open tanks and racked to a mix of Burgundy barrel, stoneware and stainless steel vessels for about 9 months aging. No fining, filtration or sulfur added.

A velvet-flocked, savory and softly spiced Pinot with enough bright acidity to remind of its volcanic roots (and flex on the table).

📍 Lake Balaton, Hungary

István's estate is tucked in a Mediterranean microclimate surrounded by mountains, overlooking the popular vacation destination Lake Balaton: Hungary’s answer to Lake Garda, and the heart of central Europe's vast Pannonian Basin.

Southeast of the (surprisingly, much smaller) Neusiedlersee, it’s central Europe’s largest lake; and, the ancestral home of Hungarian winemaking. István’s vineyards may well be on the most beautiful spot in Hungary, on the slopes of historic extinct volcano Szent György-hegy (which is also uniquely dotted with clay and limestone).

Background

István Bencze’s circle is a who’s-who of benchmark central European producers: he studied with Tscheppe and Tauss; was mentored by Strekov; complimented heavily by friend Nestarec. So it’s no surprise that he is making Hungary’s most expressive natural wine.

Similar to many of his natural winemaking peers, István was originally an IT entrepreneur with a family history of winemaking, whose passion project a decade ago has spiraled into an eye-opening, 18 hectare Demeter-certified biodynamic estate. Including a claim to the the only plot of Bakator left in existence, he farms a docket of Hungary's indigenous grapes (Furmint, Harszlevelú, Keknyelú) alongside Riesling, Chenin, and of course Pinot Noir.

István's Pinot Noir; a staggering range of vessels in the cellar. Photos via @benczebirtok

The style is always a pursuit of energy, harvesting earlier than the rest of the region and maintaining a lower ABV.

As he's learned and exchanged ideas with his incredible social circle, the winemaking has evolved over time: foregoing fining and filtration and a sparing use of sulfur, only when needed at bottling (on the Pinot Noir above, none is used at all). Élevage happens in a dazzling mix of vessels, from amphora, stainless steel, concrete, and oak that ranges from small Burgundy barrels to 2500L Austrian cask. 

Also in stock: 2021 Bencze Furmint, Badacsony, Hungary, $41
From his 'Templomdombi' plot, which includes some smaller-clustered older Furmint. Harvested in several passes, whole bunch pressed, fermented and aged in a mix of amphora for 9 months. The most intense amphora were put into this varietal cuvée, with the rest going into his 'Authochton' blend. Bottled without fining, filtration or sulfur. Bright, elegant, with fine green tea vibes.

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