Farming in the Mosel is an uphill battle. 

Scarily steep, terraced vineyards are rugged and often combating mildew. The upkeep is so challenging that the price of choice parcels are at an all-time low, sometimes even free–one of the silver linings we wrote about last year.

Considering what it takes to farm these vineyards, the idea of Biodynamic farming here feels far-fetched. But, there are a dedicated few who do. Their commitment to organic, polycultural principles is as inspiring as it is difficult. Which explains why there are less than 10 certified Biodynamic estates in the whole region. 

Longtime trail blazers like Rudolf Trossen, Clemens Busch, and Sybille Kuntz are legends in their own right. They each make profoundly personal wines that are distinct from one another.

With many having just arrived, it felt like the right time to highlight their important work. 

Clemens Busch

Since taking over his family’s 2ha land in 1976, Clemens dedicated his work to slowly acquiring the original Marienburg vineyard in Punderich. In the process, he secured 18 hectares which he converted to organic in 1984 and then Biodynamic. 

 It’s a soaring, intimidating site that hugs the Mosel and stares at his home across the river. He sections out the estate by important parcels and soil types, vinifying with native yeast and allowing his wines to naturally go through malolactic (unheard of when he began). He’s famous for the dry wines, from basic trocken to his GGs but, don’t sleep on the small amount of off-dry wines he makes. They’re some of our favorites.

Rudolf Trossen

In the town of Kinheim-Kindel, Rita & Rudolf Trossen have farmed their estate biodynamically since 1978! Encouraged by industry friends outside of the Mosel, they began experimenting with no sulfur wines in 2010. They’ve kept the course since, making some of the most distinct, natural wines in all of Germany. 

The strict natural winemaking philosophy puts them firmly in the group of unapologetic icons like Alsace’s Pierre Fricke and the Loire’s Jean-PIerre Robinot. Expect powerful whites (including the Pinot Gris-Blanc blend!) and small amounts of crispy, fresh reds.

Sybille Kuntz

In this list, Sybille Kuntz is incredibly the “newcomer,” having taken over her 2ha in 1984. Most of her vineyard parcels lie in the grand cru site Niederberg-Helden in Lieser. The old vines have deep roots in the Devonian slate, the dominant soil in the Mosel. She’s a fiercely independent winemaker with her own high standards making a unique style of wine that’s all her own. Among her wines are an older vintage dry Riesling and an orange, skin-contact Riesling.

 

Explore more wines from the magical Mosel.