This week marked a wild landing: one of the largest and most complete offers ever, from one of Champagne’s most captivating growers.

No one is growing in Champagne like Emilien Feneuil.

The last vineyard I visited on a trip to Champagne in March was Emilien Feneuil’s, in the Petite Montagne. Though the week was studded with referential producers, it was this final visit that stood out as one of the most memorable. The vines were covered with overgrown canes (for a savvy reason, explained below), many planted with Petit Meslier—a variety rarely seen in Champagne—all surrounded by trees growing within the vineyard. It was a surreal agricultural setting.

It’s a reflection of a deeply personal approach to organic farming by a grower whose star has risen to near cult status. The wines—both still and sparkling—are just as distinctive and stirring to experience. With his work now landing back at the shop, in what is arguably the country’s most complete offering, it felt like the right time to dive into the singular work being done here. —Chris 

Emilien's unique vineyard in Chamery, a stark difference from neighboring plots; photo by Missy Nell

Fast facts: After studies in Avize, Emilien returned home to the family farm in Sermiers (about 20 minutes south of the heart of Reims), from which his family sold grapes and vegetables for many years. Inspired by the early aughts shift to cleaner farming, he started to make changes in the family vines and, seeing the impacts on vineyard health and complexity, never looked back. After much trial and error the domaine is now certified organic, using an array of biodynamic and sustainable farming methods.

Rather than boxing himself in to any particular farming philosophy, Emilien simply prioritizes whichever methods yield the greatest biodiversity in each site.

Emilien is now farming just over 2 ha spread across Sermiers, Chamery and Écueil; and planted to Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Petit Meslier (the latter representing less than 10% of his fruit, but by far his most prized).

Of course, it’s not unusual for growers in Champagne’s newest generation to be farming differently than their predecessors; but in Emilien’s case, the methods and their impact are striking. First, are the trees. As biodiversity improved, native trees started popping up in his vineyards (hazelnut, oak, willow); and – as one of the first to recognize the advantages of trees in the vineyards – he planted more. (Fruit trees, specifically – we can’t wait to see a cider.)

But, the most fascinating: wild, endlessly long canes, intentionally trained to insulate fruit from frost.

Uniquely long canes; photo by Missy Nell

He allows the whole plant to flower, set fruit; with the outer parts of the cane bearing the brunt of exposure. When the danger of frost has passed, the protective ends of each cane are green harvested, leaving undiluted (and hopefully, undamaged) fruit behind.

He picks for ripeness, allowing for fully expressive wines with low-to-no dosage; and everything in the cellar is done in wood.

It’s a staggering volume of cuvées from just 2ha, with a breadth of both Coteaux Champenois and Champagne (with most available in magnum, as well) The quality levels are extremely high; his multi-parcel, multi-village blends are as vinous as the single site bottlings, echoing his uncompromising work.

Emilien's domaine is as visually stunning as the wines are thought-provoking: naturally-textured, reflective of their silty terroirs, with each varietal clearly articulated.

The full list from this release is below (and first, an extra photo journey for you 😉).

Photos by Tira Johnson and Chris Leon

COTEAUX CHAMPENOIS

2019 Emilien Feneuil 'Totum' Coteaux Champenois Blanc de Chardonnay $165 / Magnum $395
Chardonnay from 7 parcels across Chamery, Sermiers, and Écueil

2019 Emilien Feneuil 'Les Puits & Les Gillis' Coteaux Blanc de Petit Meslier and Chardonnay $180
Petit Meslier / Chardonnay, from lieux-dits Les Puits and Les Gillis

2020 Emilien Feneuil 'Les Ruisseaux' Coteaux Champenois Blanc $165 / Magnum $395
Pinot Meunier from his site in Sermiers

2020 Emilien Feneuil 'Les Babagis' Coteaux Chamery Blanc de Meunier $165 / Magnum $395
Pinot Meunier from his site in Chamery

CHAMPAGNE

2019 Emilien Feneuil 'Cuvée Totum' Champagne Magnum $395
A field blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Petit Meslier from his sites in Sermiers, Chamery, and Écueil

2020 Emilien Feneuil 'Cuvée Totum' Champagne $165
A field blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Petit Meslier from his sites in Sermiers, Chamery, and Écueil

2020 Emilien Feneuil 'Le Caqueray' Blanc de Blancs Champagne $165 / Magnum $395
Chardonnay 

2019 Emilien Feneuil 'Les Ruisseaux' Blanc de Noirs Premier Cru Millesime, Champagne, Magnum $395
Pinot Meunier from his site in Sermiers

2020 Emilien Feneuil 'Les Ruisseaux' Blanc de Noirs Premier Cru Millesime, Champagne $165 / Magnum $395
Pinot Meunier from his site in Sermiers

2020 Emilien Feneuil 'Les Puits & La Pucelle' Premier Cru Blanc de Noir, Champagne $165 / Magnum $395
Pinot Noir from two sites in Sermiers

2020 Emilien Feneuil 'Les Goulats' Rosé de Maceration Millesime, Champagne $165 / Magnum $395
Pinot Noir from Chamery