There's a shortlist of producers you can point to when defining the revolution of quality in (and frankly, attention to) Central Europe. Alongside icons like Tauss, Strekov and Bencze who reframed entire countries, there's Milan Nestarec—whose delicious, provocative work planted a flag for the Czech Republic in the late aughts.

His NY visit this spring confirmed what we’ve followed along for several vintages: the work has grown tremendously, shedding any desire to achieve “styles” and instead, intensely focused on—a truly artistic—essence of terroir. And the wines? Better than ever.

Milan is rooted in Moravia, a place relatively unexplored on a global scale (despite a long border with Austria, and mere hour drive to Vienna). He spent his childhood working hard in the family vines, which his father–not a winemaker by trade–lovingly acquired parcel by parcel.

[As quoted by his US importer, Jenny & Francois: “I remember being a 13-year-old kid who badly wanted a computer, like any teenage boy back then. But too bad for me, my father preferred to buy 0.6 hectares of land instead. Obviously, I couldn’t be more grateful for this choice now.” ]

Endless source material in Moravia; photo via Jenny & Francois

By the age of 16, Milan (who was enrolled in the regional winemaking high school) was called on to make wine from what would eventually become a total of 25 organically farmed hectares. It wasn’t long before those early wines started turning heads; energetic, juicy, fresh bottles that fit effortlessly in the larger region’s evolving natural wine scene. Now, pushing two decades of experience and relentless experimentation, his process is extremely dialed in but always evolving; every vintage inspires changes—big or small—in the next.

The cellar work is an endless pursuit of drinkability: thoughtful tempering of maceration on the whites and extraction on the reds, exacting work that feels more detailed with every release.

Now, his distinctly nervy, savory renditions of Blaufränkisch fall closer to Pinot Noir; and the whites–where skin contact is used sparingly for texture and nuance–are visceral, irresistibly complex blends that seek a sense of place more than style. Notably, all made with low (and often, no) sulfur.

Milan on his recent visit to Fulton St 🫶

The result is a lineup that presents several points of view; we’ve picked 6 favorite bottles to show how deep his talent runs.

2024 Milan Nestarec 'Kiddo Skins' Pet-Nat, Moravia, Czech Republic $28
An insanely delicious pet-nat that puts Milan's playful spirit on display. Mostly Pinot Gris with a touch of Pinot Noir, fermented with whole bunches for 8 days followed by pressing and finishing off the fermentation in pressurized tank. Tart peach candy with a touch of herbaceousness and structure from the skin contact; endlessly tasty.

2024 Milan Nestarec 'Nach' 1L, Moravia, Czech Republic $28
His liters are a foundational entry point to his work; expressive takes on regional varieties that flex very hard on the table. 'Nach' is Blaufränkisch, Pinot Noir and Zweigelt macerated for a couple weeks; juicy but layered with flavor. Cracked pepper, clove, reductive, savory dark fruit. Start the grill.

NV Milan Nestarec 'Dop' Velke Pavlovice, Czech Republic $29
Milan has started a series of perpetual cuvées to explore–without vintage variation–the depth of terroir in his family's limestone-rooted Slovenské vineyard. Started in 2020, 'Dop' is a blend of Grüner Veltliner, Chardonnay and Riesling, stomped and macerated overnight and very slowly pressed; aged in 3000L Stockinger, with no sulfur added. From a single barrel this is salty, a touch grippy, with an intensely long finish.

NV Milan Nestarec 'Postmoderna' Moravia, Czech Republic $29
Another in his series of perpetual cuvées, 100% Blaufränkisch ("the best grape ever," per Milan) started in 2016. A beautifully hydrating take on the grape with an ethereal savory quality (daikon radish vibes) layered on dark red fruit.

2022 Milan Nestarec 'Vesper' Velkopavlovicka PDO, Czech Republic $42
From his 'white label' series, Grüner Veltliner from 45 year old vines in a small, windy churchyard plot rooted in sandy soil. Directly pressed and fermented on the lees for five weeks, slowly pressed into 3000L Stockinger and aged three years. Softly spiced, incredibly textured but still somehow lithe; such an exciting rendition of the grape.

2022 Milan Nestarec 'Kitsune' Moravia, Czech Republic $48
From his 'white label' series, Blaufränkisch on a steep, sun-baked slope with 30 year old vines rooted in calcareous loess. Destemmed and fermented with three weeks of maceration; free-run juice then transferred to 3000L Stockinger and aged three years. A style that reminds us of the Spätburgunders next door: reductive, electric and deeply savory.

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