Whole cluster, centenarian Garnacha that might evoke comparisons to Comando G and Rayas – but sits firmly in a category of its own.

Last week our team had an unforgettable visit from Fernando Mora, a personality truly as dynamic as his wines. An engineer-turned-MW, Fernando returned to his tiny hometown in Aragón to make wine. The familiar narrative ends there, though; while other savvy talents have gravitated to Garnacha rooted in granite, Fernando’s brilliant renditions of old vine Garnacha and Macabeo are through the lens of slate and limestone.

And, they have quickly emerged as the area’s greatest wines. Culty, incredibly special; and while most of the lineup is extremely limited (some, not seen in retail before), the entry-level bottlings are just as exciting.

We couldn’t possibly recommend them more. Details below, including our notes from tasting with Fernando.

An engineer who turned his focus to wine, Fernando eventually became one of Spain's handful of MWs (and the first from Aragón). In the meantime, he learned and grew with mentorship and inspiration from a sweeping set of names, from María José López de Heredia to Álvaro Palacios; Ricard Rofes, Derek Mossman, Giuseppe Rinaldi; and of course new wave Spanish peers like Comando G, Javi Revert, and Envínate. Perspectives which guided his winemaking, and his approach to Grenache.

Like the best to work with the grape, Fernando sees Grenache as one of the ultimate translators of terroir.

Along with his right hand Mario López, Fernando is biodynamically farming an astounding 31 hectares of old, dry-farmed bush vines, all estate owned, planted between 1898 and 1980. With a push for freshness, they've sought high elevation sites and northern exposures from 450-1,030m; it's a range that gives way to varying combinations of slate, sand, and of course clay and limestone.

And then there is the 17th century cellar: one of the most impressive in Spain, where the wines see long, patient macerations and aging in concrete, large oak foudre and barrels (including, for the top wine, some from Les Hospices de Beaune).

It's a traditional gravity-fed, three level system that terminates in ancient underground caves carved into the bedrock. No pumps means grapes are handled so gently, in an environment conducive to natural aging.

Photos via Bodegas Frontonio and Matt Wolfe

The range starts with entry-level varietal wines and blends and expands with a series of single parcel wines, including his highest elevation 'Súpersonico.' And then there is Las Iguales: a 128 year old vineyard planted into a natural amphitheater, farmed by the same family for over a century until Fernando purchased it in 2016.

A site he envied for years prior, this is truly grand cru Aragón, planted to both Garnacha and Macabeo, rooted in slate and quartz. Reverent, chiseled expressions.

BLENDED SITES

2024 Bodegas Frontonio 'Microcosmico' Macabeo Vino de la Tierra de Valdejalon Spain, $24
100% Macabeo from 65+ year old vines rooted in clay and limestone, 530m elevation. Fermented and aged in cement tank. Fernando noted, this wine is all about showcasing the limestone; an energetic and saline wine.

2023 Bodegas Frontonio, Garnacha Single Estate Microcosmico, Valdejalon, Spain, $23
100% Garnacha from 60+ year old vines rooted in slate and clay, 650-700m elevation. 70% destemmed, semi-carbonic maceration, fermented and aged in cement tank. Silky, expressive.

2023 Bodegas Frontonio 'Telescópico' Garnacha Blend, Vino de la Tierra de Valdejalon Spain, $29
Garnacha Fina, Garnacha Peluda, and Mazuela (Cariñena) from 50+ year old vines rooted in slate and clay-limestone, 500-600m elevation. Fermented in cement and macerated for 5 weeks, racked and aged 13 months in 2500L foudre and 500L barrels. Complex, dried rose and red currant.

SINGLE PARCEL

2023 Bodegas Frontonio 'Supersónico' Garnacha, Vino de la Tierra de Valdejalon Spain, $40
95% Garnacha, 5% Macabeo, from 80+ year old vines rooted in limestone and sandy soils, 1,030m elevation. Fermented in cement, aged 1 year in 2500L foudre and neutral barrel. A vertical, citrus-driven expression of Garnacha.

2023 Bodegas Frontonio 'La Cerqueta', Vino de la Tierra de Valdejalon, Spain, $79
100% Garnacha from La Cerqueta vineyard, planted in the 1940s in gray and blue slate soils, 630m elevation. 100% whole cluster fermentation in cement and macerated for 8 weeks, racked to a single foudre for 1 year aging. Gorgeously textured, garrigue and candied red fruit.

2023 Bodegas Frontonio 'La Loma y Los Santos', Vino de la Tierra de Valdejalon, Spain, $85
60% Macabeo from La Loma vineyard, rooted in clay-limestone at 500m elevation; 40% Garnacha Blanca from Los Santos vineyard rooted in slate at 600m. Crushed and macerated 32 hours, fermented in neutral demi-muid; aged for 12 months in neutral 500L and 900L barrels.

2023 Bodegas Frontonio 'Las Tejera', Vino de la Tierra de Valdejalon, Spain, $90
A field blend of mostly Garnacha with some Macabeo from 80 year old vines rooted in slate and quartzite. 100% whole cluster, open-top fermentation; aged 14 months in 500L barrels. A more taut, structured expression with citrus-driven fruit; the whole lineup is ageworthy, but this should age especially well.

LAS IGUALES

2022 Bodegas Frontonio 'El Jardin de las Iguales' Macabeo, Vino de la Tierra de Valdejalon, Spain, $300
100% Macabeo from the 128 year old Las Iguales, rooted in slate and limestone at 700m. Macerated 40 hours, whole cluster pressed and fermentd in foudre; aged in foudre for 1 year, then re-racked to 500L barrel for additional aging prior to bottling. 797 bottles produced. Eucalyptus, fennel, beeswax. A lifted but voluminous expression that shows the true potential of Macabeo.

2023 Bodegas Frontonio 'El Jardin de las Iguales' Garnacha, Vino de la Tierra de Valdejalon, Spain, $315
Field blend of mostly Garnacha with a touch of Macabeo from the 128 year old Las Iguales, rooted in slate and limestone at 700m. Whole cluster pressed and fermented in wooden vat, racked to 456L barrels from Les Hospices de Beaune for 14 months aging. 960 bottles produced. Lacy, finely knit and complex rose-scented Garnacha; truly, wow.

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