It’s rare to see a new California winery debut with estate vines of their own.

Even rarer to see them launch at price points that feel more familiar to pre-tariff times. But that’s exactly what we've found with The Set, our newest addition to the domestic shelf.

Add to that the fact they’ve brought on world-class talent Sashi Moorman to guide both vineyard and cellar work—and we knew we had to taste what was happening here. The results did not disappoint. Full details below!

Brothers Christopher and Billy Hines have taken family land in the Sta. Rita Hills – in the heart of Santa Barbara, one of California’s most dynamic regions for cool-climate varietals – and turned it into something special. With backgrounds in film and music, the brothers brought their creative energy to the vineyard and enlisted one of California’s top talents, Sashi Moorman (Domaine de la Côte, Evening Land, Piedrasassi), to help plant the vines and launch the estate.

The estate is substantial (20 hectares!) but everything has been farmed organically and biodynamically from the start. Which, if you know about Sashi and his business, Provignage – comes as no surprise: everything they touch is rooted in regenerative, organic farming.

Christopher and Billy Hines; one of their vineyards. Photos via @thesetwines

Here, multiple clones (a mix of particularly well-regarded domestic and French biotypes) of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah, and Gamay are planted, each matched to specific parts of the site based on soil and exposure. Syrah, as the latest-ripening variety, is reserved for the warmest, most exposed parcels. And with the region’s famously cool climate, there are already plans to introduce Viognier and Riesling – white varieties that thrive in this kind of freshness and climatic restraint.

Everything is done with the same level of care and integrity: harvest is entirely by hand, fermentations are always native. But, decisions around whole cluster use and fermentation vessels are made block by block, each handled according to its unique character. The one white wine is pressed directly. Everything sees some time in wood, with formats ranging from barrique to 1500L foudre, before resting in stainless steel and bottling ahead of the following harvest.

If you love this region – and you’re familiar with Sashi’s delicate touch – you can’t help but smile while drinking these wines. They’re all deeply fresh and flexible, with a fruit quality that’s unmistakably Santa Rita Hills. A lovely debut.

2022 The Set Chardonnay, St. Rita Hills, USA $36
Unlike the Pinot and Syrah, the Chardonnay is all planted to one clone: the historic, domestic Wente clone. Planted in sand which handles heat beautifully and makes fresh, silty Chardonnay that compliments the exotic dried fruit here.

2022 The Set Pinot Noir, St. Rita Hills, USA $40
Gentle pumpovers in cement for fermentation, moved to barrique for 9 months before resting in steel prior to bottling. A rose-scented Pinot with wild red fruits and sensual texture.

2022 The Set 'PTG' St. Rita Hills, USA $36
A play on the French passetoutgrain, the Burgundian blend of Gamay and Pinot. The Gamay was entirely whole cluster, while the Pinot is all destemmed, adding a tasty interplay of spice of a fresh fruit.

2022 The Set Syrah St. Rita Hills, USA $40
This Syrah makes me think of Sashi’s early days at Stolpman, with its blue fruit and candied violets framed by juicy, seamless texture. A delicious Syrah.

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