When it comes to Montalcino, we work with a small circle of producers that we consider the best in the Sangiovese-only DOCG. It’s rare we add a new name here. After tasting with Sebastian Nasello of Podere Le Ripi last week, we did just that.

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Le Ripi presents a rare opportunity for all wine lovers to explore Montalcino. Their biodynamic work spans two specific, and very different, zones in the appellation. And, unlike most here, they eschew blending their fruit into larger cuvées for bottling each wine based on where the vines come from. This goes for the whole naturally made, delicious lineup; from the IGTs you’ll open tonight to the cellar-worthy Brunello you'll stow away.

BACKGROUND & TERROIRS

More often than not, Montalcino is condensed; a Tuscan postcard defined by high elevation castles and powerful, blended wines. In reality it contains multitudes—distinct soils, exposures, microclimates, and a patchwork of hamlets. Podere Le Ripi’s work highlights two distinct zones: in Castelnuovo dell’Abate (southeast Montalcino, where the winery is, too), and on the western side of the appellation near Camigliano.

Sites so different, that they vinify and bottle them separately rather than blend.

A stunningly visible diversity of terroirs; photo via @podereleripi

Most estates either blend across zones or work a single area; Le Ripi lets you read Montalcino’s map in the glass—zone by zone:

Castelnuovo dell’Abate (SE): Sun-soaked slopes near the Abbey of Sant’Antimo; clay- and silt-rich marls with pockets of limestone from ancient marine deposits. Wines show breadth with red-toned fruit. Benchmarks here include Uccelliera and Stella di Campalto. The top single vineyards are bottled here.

Camigliano (West): Cooler, wind-touched western exposures with more alluvial influence; typically darker fruit, graphite, and firmer drive.

Founder Francesco Illy (yes, of the coffee family) established the estate in 1997 with a long-view, biodynamic mindset. The founding “home terroirs” are the ones in Castelnuovo dell’Abate. Today the farm spans just over 53 hectares of vineyards, olive groves, gardens, orchards, pasture (for their sheep, goats, ducks, and geese) and forest. 
The modern chapter really begins in 2012, when the estate became Demeter-certified biodynamic across all of their agriculture, and winemaker (now partner) Sebastian Nasello arrived. He’s since become the public face of the project.

WINEMAKING

Sebastian Nasello brings a love for the world's greatest wines to his approach, with an almost romantic love of Montalcino’s history and wines (he also owns Montalcino’s best wine bar!)

The mesmerizing winery; photos via @podereleripi

There are consist themes in the winemaking – native fermentations, low-to-no sulfer during vinification – but a lot is based on feel, with changes happening each vintage. With the exception of the IGTs, Sangiovese is destemmed and fermented in large, cone-shaped Vosges oak vats. Fermentations are intentionally slow, often pausing over winter and reawakening in spring; if needed, they’ll use a submerged-cap approach. He mentioned that those fermentations are usually the scariest, but produce his favorite wines.

Aging happens in large casks, typically 24–40 months depending on the year, followed by a settling phase in concrete, with only small, when-necessary SO₂ additions.

THE WINES

Toscana IGT: The IGTs all come from the sandy soils of Camigliano, and are energetic, deeply satisfying wines made without wood:

2023 Podere Le Ripi 'Cappuccetto Rosa' Toscana Rosato IGT, $30
2023 Podere Le Ripi 'Attenti al Lupo' Toscana IGT, $34
2023 Podere Le Ripi 'Canna Torta' Bianco Toscana IGT, $37

Rosso & Brunello: These are all bottled by place. The Rosso and Cielo d'Ulisse are exclusively from Camigliano; the top two single vineyards are in Castelnuovo dell’Abate. Amore & Magia's chewy red fruit speaks to its distinct limestone soil, and Lupi e Sirene is a brooding, iron rich wine that is unmistakably from the famously rich soils of the area.

2021 Podere Le Ripi 'Sogni & Follia' Rosso di Montalcino, $40
2020 Podere Le Ripi 'Cielo d'Ulisse', Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, $74
2020 Podere Le Ripi 'Amore & Magia', Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, $120
2019 Podere Le Ripi 'Lupi e Sirene' Riserva, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, $150

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