Important torches have been passed in the small-but-important world of natural Burgundy. JJ Morel retired, trusting his cellar (and vines) to John Purcell of Vin Noe. The larger than life Frédéric Cossard sold his wildly important Domaine de Chassorney to trusted friend Aurélien Verdet.

And Dominique Derain, preceding even the prior two in Biodynamic farming (certified in 1989), has entrusted the very talented Julien Altaber with the future of his domain.

We love this moment captured by Not Drinking Poison's Aaron Ayscough; Dominique pouring some birthday bubbles as Julien looks on.

Julien has already been working alongside Dominique for some time – as his apprentice, and bottling his own Sextant wines in the cellar. Alongside him on both projects is his partner, Carole Schwab; and the two have taken full ownership of Domaine Derain while Dominique consults and brings his spark to projects around the world.

Having recently tasted Julien's second release of Derain, I can tell you that there is a lot to be excited about here. So much so that we got on our hands as many of the '22s as we could.

They’re giving, joyful wines that natural wine lovers and burghounds alike should make sure to get in front of.

Below are the '22s. Across the range there’s no fining or filtration, and low-to-no sulfur is used during winemaking and bottling. Élevage is consistently 12-14 months; the Bourgogne and village level wines see neutral wood, and as you go up the range he judiciously increases the amount of new wood.

One thing I particularly in enjoyed is his choice to bottle the wines (including whites) while they're still on the lees: it gives a broad appeal to the their texture, which almost feels like a signature in the range. Adding to the fact that the reds are mainly destemmed, you can't help but want to drink these wines immediately (though the top cuvées will age gracefully).

REDS:
2022 Domaine Derain Bourgogne 'Les Riaux' Rouge, Burgundy $39
2022 Domaine Derain Mercurey 'La Plante Chassey', Côte Chalonnaise $54
2022 Domaine Derain Saint-Aubin 'Le Ban', Cote de Beaune $54
2022 Domaine Derain 'Le Puits' Saint-Aubin Premier Cru $78
2022 Domaine Derain Pommard 'Les Petit Noizons', Cote de Beaune, $87
 
WHITES:
2022 Domaine Derain Bourgogne Blanc 'Landre', Burgundy $39
2022 Domaine Derain Bourgogne Blanc 'La Combe', Burgundy $41
2022 Domaine Derain Bourgogne 'La Corvee Aux Moines', Burgundy $45
2022 Domaine Derain Saint-Aubin Chardonnay Cote de Beaune $57
2022 Domaine Derain 'Les Combes au Sud' Saint-Aubin Premier Cru $77
2022 Domaine Derain 'Sur le Sentier du Clou', Saint-Aubin Premier Cru $81
2022 Domaine Derain 'En Remilly' Saint-Aubin Premier Cru $89

SHOP DOMAINE DERAIN