Jura, by village

07/01/26
The distinct villages throughout the Jura—some defined by one or two sole producers—are shaped as much by soil as they are by the wine culture and laws specific to each place.
From energetic, topped-up wines to low-and-slow oxidative bottlings, we have an absolute who’s-who drop from north to south in the appellation. Most of these wines only come once a year, so we’re taking the opportunity to highlight each producer, by village, below.

PASSENANS
Not unlike Julien Labet in Rotalier, Céline and Steve Gormally’s Les Dolomies practically define their unique little Jura village of Passenans—and its signature dolomite soil, a magnesium-rich limestone.
LES DOLOMIES

Brisk, topped-off Savagnin and Chardonnay see two winters, up to 24 months, in barrel. And the reds keep the cooling signature of the appellation’s Pinot and Trousseau. All bottled without sulfur, these are mouthwatering wines that practically vibrate in the glass. Thrilled to have them back.

2024 Les Dolomies Cotes du Jura La Cabane Pinot Noir, $45
Magnum, $98

2023 Les Dolomies Bordel c'est Bon Trousseau, $52

2023 Les Dolomies Cotes du Jura 'La Chaux' Chardonnay, $58

2023 Les Dolomies Cotes du Jura 'Croix Sarrant' Savagnin, $64

L'ETOILE
In the relative center of Jura, the landscape is marked by star-shaped marine fossils—the source of fine-boned, elegant finesse in the wines.
MONTBOURGEAU

Montbourgeau quietly makes some of the greatest wines Jura has to offer, consistently an unmatched quality:price ratio.We mention them (frequently) in the key of Crémant—truly, one of the best values in sparkling wine—now joined by a rare stateside drop of L’Etoile AOC bottlings. Extreme highlights in Juran white wine: two vintages of Cuvée Spéciale, which sees a patient 5 years non-ouillé, and Vin Jaune, with many–including the great Michel Gahier–consider to be Jura’s best.

NV Domaine de Montbourgeau Cremant du Jura Brut, $34

2023 Domaine Montbourgeau L'Etoile, Jura, $43

2020 Domaine Montbourgeau L'Etoile 'Cuvée Spéciale', Jura, $62

2011 Domaine Montbourgeau L'Etoile 'Cuvée Spéciale', Jura, $136

2019 Domaine Montbourgeau L'Etoile Vin Jaune, Jura, $135

NICOLAS JACOB

Nico is a far newer name in L’Etoile—but no less defining. Considered a true rising star, he frames the appellation with low intervention farming, meticulously parcellaire fermentations (a mark of his time with Fanfan Ganevat), and skilled blending that feels at once intuitive and incredibly thoughtful.

Our microscopic but important arrival sold immediately (in ‘24, the work was cut in half, with an almost total loss of red grapes); but a worthy mention here as the torch is passed to L’Etoile’s newest generation.

CHÂTEAU-CHALON
The AOC itself is exclusively reserved for Vin Jaune; but—as one family shows—the terroir's patchwork of intense marl can also be a source for powerfully layered, deeply satisfying renditions of Savagnin and Chardonnay.
JEAN-CLAUDE CREDOZ

4th generation Jean-Claude and Annie Credoz started their domaine with a couple hectares in 2002; fast forward, their son Valentin has joined them and they are now the tiny appellation’s largest landholders–despite making only one AOC wine.

The approach is compellingly original: from 70 year old vines rooted in the full range of soils here (red marl, blue marl, gravel), barrels rotate across cuvées each vintage; what might hold Vin Jaune one year could see zippy Melon a Queue Rouge the next. As a result, the whole range bears a distinct aromatic signature–even though every cuvée (except the Château-Chalon AOC) is topped up, the essence of oxidative winemaking is still felt.

2021 Domaine Jean-Claude Credoz Cotes du Jura VV Chardonnay, $40

2020 Domaine Jean-Claude Credoz Cotes du Jura Selection, $41

2020 Domaine Jean-Claude Credoz Cotes du Jura 'Cuvee Valentin' Savagnin Ouille, $53

2021 Domaine Jean-Claude Credoz Cotes du Jura Savagnin, $60

2018 Domaine Jean-Claude Credoz Macvin du Jura, $63

2021 Domaine Jean-Claude Credoz Cotes du Jura Vin de Paille, $74

2018 Domaine Jean-Claude Credoz Chateau-Chalon Jura, $120

ARBOIS
Jura’s largest appellation is, accordingly, the land of variety: reds and whites, from open-knit oxidative styles to topped-up bottles of tension, all born from an iridescent array of limestone soils.
DOMAINE DE SAINT PIERRE

Fabrice Dodane is one of greats, a tuning fork for the appellation’s (at times, seemingly endless) roster of talent. It’s always an event when his work lands on Fulton, and this release contains an absolute highlight in his Renard ouille Chardonnay. It's joined here by his wildly delicious négoce project sourced in the Rhône, Dos d'Chat.

2024 Domaine de Saint Pierre Dos d'Chat "Tout Facile" (Grenache/ Syrah), $40

2022 Domaine de Saint Pierre Arbois Chateau Renard Blanc, Jura, France 1.5L Magnum, $185

JULIEN CRINQUAND

A former employee of Dodane, we've loved seeing Julien’s work evolve since the wines first landed a couple years ago (full profile here), complex, aromatic renditions of Arbois fruit. The newest update: his signature Le Rouge from Pinot and Ploussard is now joined by a second bottling that adds Trousseau–an even darker, more pliant expression of his work.

2024 Julien Crinquand 'Les Canons du Jean' Arbois Le Rouge [PN/TR/PS] , Jura, $63

2023 Julien Crinquand 'Les Canons du Jean' Arbois Cuvee d'Jopin, Jura, $70

LES BOTTES ROUGES

Some of the most delicious natural wines coming out Arbois, the names behind the work come refreshingly from outside: Jean-Baptiste Ménigoz (a special-needs teacher who moonlit for Stéphane Tissot) and Florien Snuverink (a transplant from Amsterdam’s restaurant scene). The wines feel wholly natural in their unfiltered, low sulfur style; for ‘23, being released in stages as ‘24 yielded almost no wine. We’re excited to see another wave arrive:

2023 Les Bottes Rouges Arbois 'Neo' Pinot Noir, Jura, $57

2023 Les Bottes Rouges Cotes du Jura 'Pollock's' Chardonnay, $58

2023 Les Bottes Rouges Arbois 'La Pépée' Poulsard, Jura, $68

2023 Les Bottes Rouges Arbois 'Tot ou Tard' Poulsard, Jura, $68

2023 Les Bottes Rouges Cotes du Jura 'Face B' Savagnin, $84

CELLIER SAINT BENOIT

A savant-level talent here, whose work edges the new guard in Burgundy. At just 23, Pupillin native Benjamin Benoit was called away from the Cote d’Or (where he staged with Berthaut and Lachaux) when his father passed away unexpectedly, and overnight the family estate was in his care.

That inaugural vintage (‘19) was met with positive shock—the wines are exquisitely high thread count, a refined style that obscures his humble nature. Truly Arbois by way of Burgundy, the range is now a dizzying (just Ploussard comes to 6 cuvées alone) new perspective on Arbois.

2023 Cellier Saint Benoit 'Chambines' Ploussard, Jura, $113

2022 Cellier Saint Benoit Arbois Pupillin Pinot Noir 'Courbes Raies' Jura, $135

2022 Cellier Saint Benoit Arbois Pupillin 'Les Plantees' Savagnin Nature, Jura, $140

2023 Cellier Saint Benoit Arbois Pupillin 'Viandris' Ploussard, Jura, $158

2023 Cellier Saint Benoit Arbois Pupillin Pinot Noir 'Courbes Raies' Jura, $165

2023 Cellier Saint Benoit Arbois Pupillin 'La Ronde' Ploussard, Jura, $180

2023 Cellier Saint Benoit Arbois Pupillin 'Le Grapiot' Ploussard, Jura, $188

2023 Cellier Saint Benoit Arbois Pupillin 'Côte de Feule' Ploussard, Jura, $188

RIJCKAERT

The original Burgundy transplant, Mâcon winemaker Jean Rijckaert founded the Jura half of his domaine in the '90s. With no heir, much of the work has transitioned to his right hand Florent Rouve, but the approach remains the same: gently, fresh winemaking with no bâtonnage and two winters in barrel.

The Savagnin below is stacked: long, slow pressing extracts a deep expression of the grape, for a wine that feel structurally like a richer Burgundy, but aromatically pure Jura Savagnin.

2023 Rijckaert Arbois Savagnin Jura, $33

ROTALIER
Jura's southern end is home to eroded, calcareous soils; and, a set of precise, terroir-driven, incredibly culty names.
LABET

Aside from the singular Jean-François Ganevat, there is no more famous name in Rotalier (and, the shortlist of Jura’s cultiest producers). The domaine was one of the first in Jura at large to bottle by terroir, a topped-up approach intensely focused on allowing the purity of fruit and soil in each site to shine through.

Always cellar-worthy wine, and we have a few bottles of rosé cremant from the most recent release–marked with the tension and driven style the work has become famous for.

2022 Domaine Labet Cremant du Jura Rose Brut, $80

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