A changing of the guards – even a planned one – can unsettle an estate. Daniel Vollenweider’s passing in 2022 could have left a void for the estate’s future.

But his partner Mortiz Hoffmann seems to not only have honored his work by finishing the '22 vintage (in incredible style and intention, more on that below); but, with the newly arrived 2023s, he’s solidified the future of this seminal Mosel estate.

With a lineup that’s arguably more lifted than the previous house style, Moritz's 2023s are some of the finest of the vintage.

I was in the Mosel Valley for a short window in 2023. It was maybe the coldest I’ve ever felt in July. Consistent sweater-weather and mist were what I experienced. But, to read about the vintage, you would think it was a swelteringly warm season in Germany (an exception to this would be importer vom Boden’s report, which addresses the complexities of the vintage in 3820 words. We see you and your words Stephen 😉)

Part of my short time there was spent visiting Vollenweider and – after tasting the estate’s newly released 23s – I find myself thinking these taste a whole lot more of that July cold spell I experienced than of a “warm vintage.” Cooling, quenching and, with the dry wines, brisk. An achievement professionally (see the glowing Mosel fine wine review below) and, we can only imagine, personally for Mortiz Hoffmann.

"Moritz Hoffmann and his team have succeeded in producing a magnificent collection in 2023. The wines have become even more refined and precise than in the past. The 2023er Felsenfest, a light, bone-dry Riesling, is a great success and the best produced at the Estate. All the wines are superb, and a special mention goes to the new 2023er Goldgrube Kabinett Wurzelecht, a truly magnificent and playful wine and a strong contender for Kabinett of the vintage." – Mosel Fine Wine 

SHOP VOLLENWEIDER

 

2023 Vollenweider 'Felsenfest' Riesling Trocken $26
Featuring fruit from Kröver Steffensberg, Trarbacher Schlossberg and young vines in Wolfer Goldgrube. Fermented and aged in tank, classically bone dry and racy with 3 g/l RS. Beautifully fresh complexity, with touches of just about everything uplifting: mint, lime, smoke, fresh cut flowers to name a few.

2022 Vollenweider 'Wolfer' Riesling Trocken $38
From 50 year old vines in the terraced part of Wolfer Goldgrube, aged for a year on the gross lees. Dry, wrapped in a more phenolic structure, with the same fresh complexity as Felsenfest above underpinning richer notes of baked almond, spice and stone fruit.

2022 Vollenweider 'Goldgrube' Riesling Trocken $60
From 120 year old ungrafted vines in Wolfer Goldgrube, aged for a year on the gross lees. Touch of reduction with flinty wild herbs, white pepper spice; an ultra polished bone dry style with a long, racy finish.

2023 Vollenweider Trarbacher Burgberg Riesling Kabinett $34
From 40 year old vines in Trarbacher Burgberg, harvested early. After fermentation a fruitier-for-Vollenweider style remains, with a touch of candied and tropical yellow fruits; a streak of acidity through the finish keeps it light on its feet and especially gulpable.

2023 Vollenweider Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Kabinett $38
From old vines in the Jon section of Wolfer Goldgrube, opens up with evidence of that "warm" vintage - baked cream, ripe flowers, spice and orchard fruit - but still vibrates with acidity. A quietly energetic style that will have a lot of length

2023 Vollenweider Goldgrube 'Wurzelecht' Riesling Kabinett $53
From some of the oldest ungrafted vines in the Jon section of Wolfer Goldgrube. A high thread count on this one: there are gauzy herbs, lavender, candied lime, almond; ethereal acidity. An incredibly sophisticated Kabinett

2023 Vollenweider Goldgrube Riesling Spätlese $50
From some of the oldest ungrafted vines in the Portz section of Wolfer Goldgrube, which is positioned further up the hill and facing southwest. On the more understated end of Spätlese aromatics but there is richness to be found in candied grapefruit, almond, smoke. Juicy and round palate more than balanced by a lacy, integrated acidity

2014 Vollenweider Goldgrube Riesling Spätlese $60
An extraordinarily mineral Spätlese library release. It's on the lower end of RS (truly more of a Feinherb style) so the salty, slate-y side of Goldgrube really shines.