Newest Barbaresco 💫
With lots of love recently for Nebbiolo of the highest caliber, especially from Barolo and Piedmont's new guard; it'd be a miss not to mention that some of the best new landings recently have come from Barbaresco.
The most intriguing: a new release from the talented pro snowboarder-turned-grower Olek Bodonio; and a full swath of '21s (including a new cru) from cult traditionalist Cascina delle Rose.
CASCINA DELLE ROSE
Cascina delle Rose is a wine lover's secret. A tiny property tucked in the Rio Sordo valley – historically known for the cultivation of roses – is where they've run the estate since the '40s.
Their style is one I adore: long, slow macerations with a submerged cap technique in steel, followed by an even more patient 18–24 months in Slavonian botti. Producing a lithe, red fruited lineup that jumps out of the glass.
They are famously known for being the only grower to do a cru bottling from Tre Stelle.
Planted on calcareous soils, it's a more exotic, open-knit wine when compared to their other well known cru, Rio Sordo, which shows a more vertical (and arguably more long-lived) Barbaresco.
Joining these historical bottlings is the Marcorino cru, which they’ve just released for the first time. A gorgeous wine that is the most open upon this 2021 release.
Also, pro tip: don’t sleep on the beautiful Langhe bottling, which comes from the same Rio Sordo Cru as their Barbaresco!
OLEK BONDONIO
Though he's often referenced as one of the best in the 'new guard,' Olek Bondonio is going on 20 years of making some of Piedmont's most highly regarded wines.
Regardless of generation, we think he's simply one of the best growers in the zone.
With a family history going back almost 200 years here, he’s inherited some of the finest vineyard sites in Barbaresco. It totals to 7ha of vines, split between Barbaresco’s Roncagliette and Starderi crus, as well as parcels in Altavilla, Neive and Catagnole delle Lanze.
All of which he farms organically and with biodynamic practices.
In the cellar he uses the same submerged cap technique mentioned above, but decides to forgo sulfur completely until bottling – bringing a purity of fruit and openness of texture to his Barbarescos.
With Crus like Roncagliette and Starderi, you could easily cellar his wines; but they’re difficult to not drink asap. It’s because his final wines blend an old school reverence for aroma with a textural ease that few others capture.