The Italian island you're not drinking...yetđ
With a small drop of other-worldy wines from TANCA NICA, we thought it was time to zoom in on their home island of Pantelleria.
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A 32 sq mi dot in the Mediterranean, the island of Pantelleria is totally unique. Itâs technically a Sicilian satellite, and planted with many of the same grapes; but closer to Africaâs Tunisia than anywhere else. Defined by its nature, thermal lagoons and hotsprings, 80% of the island is a protected national park.
Itâs a volcanic wonder for wine: despite being soaked in sun, the vineyards are protected by both nonstop winds (its prior Arabic name is âDaughter of the Windsâ).
And, their bush training system (vite ad alberello) is so culturally significant, itâs on UNESCOâs âRepresentative list of the intangible cultural heritage of Humanity'.
It isnât often we have an opportunity stateside to experience the dry wines of Pantelleria; the island is most known for sweet passito styles from Zibibbo (aka Muscat of Alexandria). But, when we do â we're blown away. Enter...
TANCA NICA
Exotic, saline; natural, but refined. The wines of Francesco and Nicoletta Ferreri are a rare example of what Pantelleria really has to offer.
Like the bush training, winegrowing here is an ancient art passed down generations. After studying in Venetoâs Conegliano, Francesco came home to farm just 2 hectares of Zibbibo, Catarratto and Pignatello. Old technique means things are natural by default: organic farming, native yeasts, no additives (no sulfur!), and of course, everything by hand.
It can be easy for macerated whites and such hands-off winemaking to feel more of a style than of a place. But, with the raw phenolics of old vines, maceration here seems to bring out a distinctly Pantelleria character: sun-soaked exotic aromas, salinity from a windy coast, and the power of old vines grown in remote volcanic soil. Even the red co-ferment âFirri Firriâ shares this quality: like a Jura red thatâs been marooned on a deserted island.
These bottles are incredibly rare and special to taste â pick them up while they last.