Carroll Kemp's path through winemaking—and tasting the current release of his Alma Fria—echoes the West Sonoma Coast at large: the wines almost impossibly continue to ratchet up in polish and intensity, stirring affirmations that this terroir is one of the most treasured in wine.

Below, our notes from tasting with Carroll (and a bit of history...)

We've long known this is a special place; but recent tastes of (some of the most hallowed names in American wine) Littorai, Hirsch, RAEN, and Alma Fria have still surprised us. Against a backdrop of multi-decade legacies and the intense threat of climate change, the wines are astonishingly better than ever.

And perhaps more surprising is that the West Sonoma Coast AVA is still one of the country's newest, officially recognized only in 2022 after more than a decade of lobbying from the West Sonoma Coast Vintners (which counts Carroll among its founders). The larger Sonoma Coast AVA was too broad for its most western sites—foggy, craggy hills that hug the coastline and produce aromatic fruit completely distinct from anything inland.

The road to Carroll's estate Holtermann Vineyard; photo via Alma Fria

Here, Alma Fria (soul of the cold) is Carroll Kemp's magnum opus; for many years, he was the visionary behind Red Car, a well-loved operation with a track record of making some of the Sonoma Coast's most delicious Pinot Noir (and, staking a claim for a rosé format here). The sale of that work allowed him to push further north and west, pursuing increasingly expressive sites including an estate vineyard (Holtermann), where he farms Pinot Noir in the northernmost reach of the West Sonoma Coast. 

Now, his bottles quietly dot Michelin-starred lists, anchored by billowy Chardonnay and deeply savory Pinot Noir with dizzying expansions to traditional method sparkling, Syrah, and one of the only examples of truly coastal Sonoma Cabernet. Production is tiny (case counts are in few-dozens); special, rare peeks into the more far-flung stretches of the AVA.

With distinct (and frankly, irresistible) combinations of piney redwood influence and fresh, complex fruit, Carroll's wines are deeply marked by the county's western edge—and proof of the recognition it's earned.

Tasting with Carroll on Fulton St this Spring!

2023 Alma Fria 'Plural' Sparkling Rosé of Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, $50
His traditional method rosé intentionally leans towards fresh, expressive fruit, with a quick stint on the lees (about 6 weeks, about the time it takes for the second fermentation to ferment dry). Springy, flexible pairing for everything from spicy food to fruit custard.

2021 Alma Fria Sparkling Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, $98
Carroll's approach is heavily focused on the base wine, something he feels is lacking in most of the appellation's sparkling; this is only his second release from a perpetual reserve he started in 2010. No dosage, disgorged Spring 2025, dense aromatics (orange peel, salted butter, caramel) – a very serious and very, very delicious wine.

2024 Alma Fria 'Plural' Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, $52
A blend of sites across Sonoma Coast, bottled at the end of this winter; push-and-pull between mouthwatering freshness and billowy, peaceful texture; lemon-lime meringue vibes.

2023 Alma Fria, Stolo Vineyard Syrah, Sonoma Coast, $50
We (somewhat) quietly love Syrah from the northern half of the state (case in point, Ryan Alfaro's Santa Cruz rendition). This is always the last pick of the season for Carroll, "what I imagine Syrah grown in Jura would taste like," as he put it. The grape's spiciness here is more grilled poblano than black pepper; with an extremely pleasant touch of fresh reduction, irresistible wine.

2022 Alma Fria Plural Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Coast, $62
A rare Cabernet in the area, from a single mountain vineyard truly just a few yards from the West Sonoma Coast border. Carroll vinifies this almost the same as his Pinot Noir ("What would a Pinot Noir winemaker do with Bordeaux style Cabernet?" he mused). While his Pinot gets pressed as soon as sugars are dry, the Cabernet sees five extra days of maceration; a touch that transforms long-chain tannins to softer short-chain tannins. Pure, silky Cabernet with beautifully developed pyrazines and landing at just 12.5% ABV. Yes.

2023 Alma Fria 'Plural' Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast, USA, $51
A blend of three sites, including his estate fruit at Holtermann; a hydrating style of Pinot incredibly representative of the redwood-influenced aromatics here layered on top of savory, taut red fruit.

2023 Alma Fria Richardson Ranch Pinot Noir, West Sonoma Coast, $95
From one of the West Sonoma Coast's most historic terroirs, Richardson Ranch, intensely surrounded by redwoods. Interestingly, Carroll shared that the influence of redwoods in a vineyard starts as fresher, citrusy conifer aromatics and deepens into more savory mushroom as the wine ages. The effect here is citrusy, spiced tea.

2023 Alma Fria, Holtermann Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast, USA, $94
A more visceral expression from 100% organic estate fruit in his Holtermann vineyard; a low-yielding site in tiny Annapolis, it's tucked just a couple miles from the ocean and surrounded by redwoods. Dark fruit with an incredibly umami palate, the deepest complexity of the three Pinot Noirs here. Incredibly unique wine from this secluded site.

SHOP ALMA FRIA