Hokkaido continues to grow as a center for one of the most transformative stories in wine. At the heart of it: the referential wines of Takahiko Soga.

The wines from Japan's northern island are still as rare as they are exciting. The fine wines of Hokkaido, rarely leave Hokkaido: they seldom make it even just South to Tokyo or Kyoto, and came to the US for the first time only last year.

DOMAINE TAKAHIKO

Credit for the emergence of quality wine in Hokkaido can be pointed to Takahiko Soga: a leader in the natural wine movement (and a champion of Pinot Noir) who started his Domaine in 2010.

The island has a climate favorable to vinifera (the rest of the country focuses on non-vinifera) and, importantly, a contingent committed to organics and natural vinification. Prior to his work, the area's focus was more tuned to commercial production and higher-yield varietals, like Zweigelt.

Not to sound dramatic, but, all of the top wines from here are either made directly by Takahiko, or informed by his influence and training with the area's emerging winemakers.

Takahiko's Pinot Noir vines are planted in a unique, sheltered valley in Nobori, Yoichi. In the winery, the style is minimal intervention without additives, and fermented whole cluster.

2021 Domaine Takahiko 'Nana Tsu Mori' Pinot Noir, Hokkaido $200

DOMAINE ICHI

Domaine Ichi was founded by in Niki, Yoichi, by Ichiro Ueda in 2015; and completed conversion to organic farming in the vineyards in 2018. Ichiro makes an intense skin-macerated Pinot Gris; and a beautiful (volcanic soil!) Pinot Noir.

2021 Domaine Ichi Pinot Gris, Hokkaido $130
2021 Domaine Ichi Pinot Noir, Hokkaido $150

DOMAINE MONT

Founded by Atsuo Yamanaka in 2016 after working with Takahiko for 2 years. Atsuo's Pinot Gris vines are close to the Takahiko vineyards in Nobori.

2021 Domaine Mont Pinot Gris, Hokkaido $140
2022 Domaine Mont Pinot Gris, Hokkaido $140

DOMAINE KURA

Ken and Kazuko Sasaki returned home to Japan with degrees from the University of Burgundy in hand; and, experience across Burgundy, Alsace, the Rhône (Leflaive!). Farming with philosophies of biodynamics and permaculture, their Chardonnay is another thrilling entry to the beautiful world of Japanese wine.

2021 Norakura Fumizuki Chardonnay, Hokkaido $180