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Thomas de Marne + Champagne Arrivals
06/12/24
Next door to Vouette, one of the Aube's original certified organic estates is changing guard.
Aaron Ascough, in his excellent profile of Thomas de Marne last year, pointed to 2024 as the full transition of his mother’s estate Val' Frison to his eponymous label. The wines which mark the passing of that torch have just arrived.
For those new to the wines, the domaine is located in the southeast corner of Champagne’s Aube. A wine-lovers favorite since the early aughts, they began farming organically and bottling their own wine in 2003 under the guidance of neighbor and friend Bertrand Gautherot of Vouette & Sorbée.
There's a mix of both Portlandian and Kimmeridgian limestone, historically bottled separately. And a preference for picking later in the season so they can bottle all of the wines without any dosage.
So far, Thomas is generally maintaining this approach. Elevage is still in old wood, a mixture of barrique and 500L.
The only small changes outside of the name: a cuvée named 'Holistique' (replacing his mother's ‘Portlandia,’ and the first wine to be aged under cork); and an exciting Coteaux bottling.
We've just tasted these and were motivated to bring in the entire lineup. Each cuvée is that distinct, driven and deeply quenching:
2022 Thomas de Marne Coteaux Champenois 'Thomas' Blanc $75
A first for the domaine, a blend of Chardonnay and direct press Pinot Noir. Absolutely delicious.
Thomas de Marne 'Goustan' Blanc de Noirs Brut Nature (R20) $90
Pure Pinot off a mixture of blocks on the estate, raised in old wood and bottled without dosage or sulfur.
Thomas de Marne 'Lalore' Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature (R20) $95
This pure Chardonnay is one of the smaller bottlings, as it's off one hectare of pure Kimmeridgean soil. Like the other 2020s, bottled without sulfur.
Thomas de Marne 'Holistique' Brut Nature (R19) $95
The new wine from Thomas is a blend of both Pinot and Chardonnay (historically the domaine has focused on varietal wines) and aged under cork, giving the wine a more generous, luxurious profile. A great first bottling.
Thomas de Marne 'Cotanes' Blanc de Noirs Brut Nature (R19) $105
A single parcel bottling of 100% Pinot Noir, which gets a touch more élevage prior to bottling than the other cuvées.
MORE NEW CHAMPAGNE ARRIVALS
🌟 New From Avize 🌟
Pierre Hugot is a name you will only hear more and more in the coming years.
Somehow at only 27, he's worked for Comte Liger-Belair, Chavy-Chouet, Jean-Marc Roulot and Vaccelli, all before coming home to the family estate to oversee a small holding in the Côte des Blancs. His inaugural bottlings include the tiny '17 vintage release (below) from 50 year old vines in Avize; with only 1g dosage, it's totally characterful of this special terroir.
We have to be patient for the domaine's family wines, as his first harvest of those vines was just last year. They will include parcellair wine from LaRouillée (Cramant), La Noue Tuilière (Chouilly) and La Colcuette (Oiry); and a blended bottling of Cuis, Chouilly and Oiry. Lots to look forward to here.
Champagne Hélène Avize Blanc de Blancs Brut $80
Leclaire-Thiefaine is a new name to us, but in Avize the family has had holdings here since the 19th century – growing organic fruit that captures a fresh, chalky profile in the final wines.
Both cuvées are fermented natively, bottled with four grams of dosage. They're also from the same base, but 'Tirage Liége' sees extra élevage.
Leclaire-Thiefaine 'Terre Blanche' Avize Grand Cru 2020 $68
Leclaire-Thiefaine 'Tirage Liege' Avize Grand Cru 2020 $84
💫 New Marie-Courtin Release 💫
These biodynamic wines have been a staple of the store since we opened in 2015.
Dominique Moreau’s work has rightfully become a reference for quality in the Aube with a focus on Pinot Noir, exclusively bottled without dosage. We love when we’re able to have these wines, the most precious of which recently landed:
2020 Marie Courtin Coteaux Champenois 'Blanc du Tremble' $90
NV Marie Courtin 'Efflorescence' Extra Brut (2018) $100
Also available in magnum and 3L
2018 Marie Courtin Champagne 'Concordance' Extra Brut [Sans Soufre] $125
2020 Marie Courtin, 'Presence' Extra Brut $130