Tino Kuban has morphed into something of a cult figure within the small but important world of collectable, natural Burgundy.

His Maison Glandien, which started as a couple barrels for personal consumption, has grown in stature along with his larger domain. The wines just landed, and we're lucky to have enough to explore with our community here. We go into Tino's most personal project – where it started and how it's evolved to include his estate – below. 

We’ve said it before, but it bears repeating: sometimes it takes an outsider to truly see the potential of a place. Case in point, Tino Kuban; he’s one of Burgundy’s most cultish and compelling figures, yet he’s not French—and didn’t come up through the usual Côte d'Or ranks.

Kuban was born in Berlin, and shaped by a global resume that reads like a who’s who of the natural wine world. He cut his teeth in New Zealand (Felton Road, Burn Cottage, Sato Wines), South Africa (Mullineux), and finally France, where he worked with icons like Overnoy, Bornard, and Dard & Ribo.

Tino in his cellar; photo via Stelle Wine Co.

His name took center stage when he purchased Domaine Bernard van Berg, tucked into the edge of Meursault. Over the prior 15 years, the domaine had become a quiet icon, helping define what natural wine could be in Burgundy. Vines were trained à l’échalas (on single stakes), production was microscopic; and the wines were both revered and relentlessly sought after. Truly, a seminal chapter for wine lovers.

In 2018 the van Bergs sold the estate to Tino, seeing his ownership not as a break, but as a continuation of their natural, low-intervention vision.

This is how his domain Les Jardins Vivants began, continuing the work that the van Bergs started with fervent biodynamics, wildly low yields and long, patient winemaking. Hid addition was Maison Glandien: a delicious exploration outside of the estate's original vines. Also started in 2018, the project has seen several iterations since launching:

2018: Started simply for personal consumption, and an opportunity to work with fruit outside of the domain

2020: Transitioned to fully fledged micro-négociant, with the core coming from the Chalonnaise, and blostered with fruit from Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, Beaujolais, Alsace and Jura

2022: Tino adds cuvée ‘L’Origine’ to the Glandien label, using domaine fruit and blurring the line between négoce and estate. The wines see longer élevage, inching closer to his work at Les Jardins

With several years of experimentation behind him, the 2023 vintage sees Tino Kuban settled into a clear and confident approach at Maison Glandien—a style that’s serious yet fruit-driven, and offers an accessible entry point into his philosophy without the wait (or cost) of the domaine wines.

Whites are foot-tread and pressed vertically, with little to no settling before fermentation. Reds are fermented entirely whole cluster, with regular pigeage and extended macerations (around one month).

Élevage is 10 months in oak, primarily in used Stockinger barrels with just a small proportion of new wood. Everything is unfined and unfilfited. No sulfur is added at pressing or during fermentation; and minimal amounts are used only if necessary after malolactic or at bottling.

2023 Maison Glandien 'L'ouverture' Rosé, $100

2023 Maison Glandien 'L'ouverture' Rouge, $105

2023 Maison Glandien 'La Cruci' Blanc, $155

2023 Maison Glandien 'La Moire' Blanc, $120

2023 Maison Glandien 'Les Ecully' Rouge, $125

2022 Maison Glandien 'Les Roches' Rouge, $165

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