Two exciting new cuvées just landed from Champagne's bon vivant – the king of Cumières – Vincent Laval.

Distinct enough, in fact, that they don’t carry the historic domaine name (Georges Laval) but rather are labeled as Vincent Laval. We got to get up close on a visit to his vines and winery (and eventual fête at his house) and have all the details for you below. – Chris

First a bigger revelation from this trip: there is a shocking amount of good red wine being produced in Champagne.

More often than not, the category results in nothing more than a curiosity. But between a warming climate and increased generational know-how, there is a solid set of truly world-class rouge being made in the region. Technically, Vincent Laval has made red at the winery before. But it was thirteen years ago, in the 2009 vintage; a famously warm one that ripened the fruit to a place that pushed Pinot beyond the scope of just sparkling wine. He’s been waiting over a decade for another opportunity.

2022 was that year. Laval already has an upper hand with ripeness, as his third-generation estate is in Cumières: a village that doubles as a south-facing amphitheater, hugging the Marne river with a massive hillside behind it. The vines here lap up every bit of UV the sun has to give. The topography is such a distinct part of the village that the minute you step up to the top of the hillside, you’re technically outside of the Cumières appellation.

Vincent showing us Cumières nestled in its natural bowl-shaped valley

Laval's ‘Cumières Rouge’ is all Pinot Noir from the heart of the hillside, done completely whole cluster, foot tread and left to macerate for two weeks; and raised in a mixture of new-and-old wood for almost two years before bottling. A true rarity with only about 500 bottles produced in total.

The result is special. A woodsy, sumptuously fruited wine that's as much about Cumières' sunshine as it is about its forested perimeters. Textural, phenolic, and incredibly memorable Coteaux Champenois.

The second wine should make any Laval fan happy as it signals an increase in the domaine's size. Tiny by Champagne standards, Laval's wines are as difficult to find as they are unique and delicious. His newest sparkling 'Vignes de Mon Oncle' – a show stopping wine – are from vines he purchased from his uncle. Giving us all a touch more Laval to go around.

Checking in on 'Vignes de Mon Oncle' in barrel; an homage to his uncle in the cellar

'Vignes de Mon Oncle' was one of my favorites on the trip. It's built from both Pinot varietals and Chardonnay, though longtime fans will immediately recognize the pomaceous signature you get in his pure Chard 'Les Chenes.'

The delicious fruit quality is underpinned by the savory spice of the Pinot, and it all gels together without dosage. It's a brilliant bottle of wine that I can't recommend highly enough.

Vincent in his cave; his beautiful press.

The range is joined with the return of Laval's 'Cumières Premier Cru.' We've been missing this wine as it wasn't produced in the difficult '21 vintage. Frankly, it's required reading (drinking) for all lovers of wine.

Coming from the '22 vintage it's gloriously open, showing his calcaire-transparent, no dosage approach layered with quenching fruit that we love.

And psst – there's a touch left of the domaine's Georges Laval bottlings...

Vincent Laval (Georges Laval) Cumières Preimier Cru Rouge Coteaux Champenois, Champagne only 500 bottles made!

Vincent Laval (Georges Laval) Cumières Premier “Vignes de Mon Oncle” Cru Brut Nature, Champagne (2022)

Georges Laval Cumières Premier Cru Brut Nature, Champagne (2022)

Tasting in the cellar; old vines in Cumières

SHOP ALL LAVAL