Manicle is a cru—and likely the most serious terroir—you’ve never heard of.

At 1,000 feet elevation in Bugey, tucked between Savoie and Jura, it’s a mere 12 hectares of Jurassic limestone. And unlike the surrounding appellations, it is completely devoted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay; a south-facing, bowl-shaped cliff that can ripen these varieties unlike any other corner of Bugey—which is why you see Gamay in the surrounding valleys.

There are only four growers here, but it’s Clément Bärtschi who is bringing this sliver of land to the world stage. He’s taken his experience—first as an intern at DRC, and now as head winemaker at Michel Chapoutier—and brought a fiercely detailed approach to his home village.

Echoing his work in the northern Rhône, his Chardonnay sees a cold soak followed by whole cluster pressing into tank, raised in barrique for a year, and finished in tank again for another two to three months. Pinot Noir gets an infused approach, with whole clusters allowed to ferment on their own until the berries burst, creating a semi-carbonic fermentation; then raised exactly like the whites.

The results are thrilling and in line with the most exciting growers we see farther north in Jura: quenching reds and phenolic whites that feel like they’ve been awakened from a deep freeze.

Two perspectives from Manicle cru; photos via @clementbartschi

When Clément Bärtschi retired from professional rugby, his next step was already in the works: with degrees in microbiology and oenology, he landed an internship at DRC, followed by Hermitage benchmark Chapoutier where he became (and remains) head winemaker.

Enter Bugey: where (through family friends in his family's home region) in 2018 he had a once in a lifetime opportunity to become one of only four landholders in the 12-hectare cru Manicle. Within a few short years, the plot was certified organic, and farmed with biodynamic practices.

Through focused, small production, Clément has given us a window into this under explored appellation—what a boon to have these stateside:

2023 Domaine Bärtschi Chardonnay 'Sous Les Rochers La Vigne' Cru Manicle, Bugey, France, $48
From 50-60 year old Chardonnay vines in the middle of the vineyard that sees more clay topsoil; a generous-feeling, hazelnut-scented wine with crystalline minerality that pulls it back from being overly rich.

2023 Domaine Bärtschi Pinot Noir 'Sous Les Rochers La Vigne' Cru Manicle, Bugey, France, $52
From 50-60 year old Pinot Noir vines in the middle of the vineyard that sees more clay topsoil; winemaking as noted above includes about one week of semi-carbonic maceration. Aged in lightly used 228L French oak for one year. A cooling, elegantly violet-scented Pinot Noir.

2023 Domaine Bärtschi Chardonnay 'Le Clos' Cru Manicle, Bugey, France, $64
From 50-60 year old Chardonnay vines on the edges of the vineyard, where almost no topsoil sits on top of pure limestone. The barrel influence is felt more here, minerality skews a touch more saline; absolutely stunning wine.

2023 Domaine Bärtschi Pinot Noir 'La Pendia' Cru Manicle, Bugey, France, $68
From 74 year old Pinot Noir vines planted at the bottom of the vineyard in 1949 from an old massale selection of Pinot Fin, prized for its smaller berries. Winemaking as noted above includes about one week of semi-carbonic maceration; aged in lightly used 228L French oak for one year. Deeply savory, almost caramelized fruit; ageworthy wine.

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