We've welcomed two new biodynamic Chardonnays from Oregon's Eola-Amity Hills: one for the special space on the table, the other for any day of the week.

They join a growing roster of thrilling talent drawn to the appellation—Jean-Marc Roulot and Pedro Parra among them—firm proof that the northern Willamette Valley is one of the most exciting places in the wine world right now.

NIEW VINEYARDS

The sole bottling from one of the highest elevation vineyards in the Willamette Valley is a cooling, ethereal wine that speaks to both the excitement around Oregon Chardonnay, and to a refreshingly restrained style uncommon among the region's vanguard.

When it comes to farming his vineyard at the northern end of the Willamette Valley, Tai-Ran Niew applies the Fukuoka method in the truest sense. In his own words: “Only sunlight, air and water should be required to produce beautiful grapes, with minimal labour—no tilling and composting—and no sprays, well, except perhaps some milk…” Rarely seen, especially on the domestic side.

Though he planted the vineyard to just one variety—Chardonnay—Tai-Ran went about it with no lack of diversity, or intensity. The original work encompassed 20 different clones; and as the vineyard has matured, about a dozen endured through biological competition. There are two (very important) threads here: first—in what's becoming a familiar theme as ripeness pushes north—the best performing are heritage clones originally developed for California. And second—echoing Burgundy's remarkable evolution towards diversity in many forms—small, millerendange clusters are preferred, a source of incredible nuance.

All of this farming comes with the end goal of making a singular wine from Chardonnay: here, an intricate, lithe bottle that sees an extended cold soak and two winters before bottling (first in old oak for refinement, followed by a finish in stainless steel). While the vineyard establishes, Tai-Ran is supplementing with fruit from nearby Royer Vineyard; and, notably, the wine is made with the cellar space and mentorship of Oregon Chardonnay mastermind Seth Morgen Long.

It's patient, delicate winemaking that brings us one of the most unique Oregon wines we've tasted in a while—very special stuff.

2024 Niew Vineyards Chardonnay, Willamette Valley, USA, $115

SALEM WINE CO.

From one of the Eola-Amity Hills' top sites for Chardonnay, an exorbitantly delicious bottle priced so you can drink great wine, every day of the week.

Salem Wine Co. is part of Evening Land Vineyards—a foundational estate in the Eola-Amity Hills which over the years has been home to a who's-who of winemaking (including Dominique Lafon, Mark Tarlov, Rajat Parr, and now continuing in the deeply talented hands of Sashi Moorman). The estate vineyard, Seven Springs, was planted in 1984 and is also a beloved source of fruit for many of the region's young talents: Seth Morgen (Morgen Long), Walter Scott and Daniel Estrin (Cristom) among them.

A relatively lush counterpoint to Tai-Ran Niew's bottling, the wine is kissed by malo and 11 months sur lie in neutral French oak; bracing acidity and (like Niew) a finish in stainless steel before bottling bring it all back to a textured, chic center.

A polished bottle, for everyone to enjoy this special place in wine:

2023 Salem Wine & Co. Chardonnay Eola-Amity Hills, USA, $26