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2017 Fio Wines Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling, Mosel, Germany
$120.00
Dirk and his sons Daniel and Marco had been searching for a project in the Mosel when they met Philipp Kettern of Lothar Kettern in Piesport. The two families shared a common vision for what the wines of the Mosel could be: old school wines made in a classic and slower style, using time as the element missing from many wines which they felt rushed to market today.
Fio: Everyday Avant-Garde 2In the cellar, the wines are naturally fermented in very old Mosel fuder barrels and without sulfur. The ferments can take a long time to complete, but here, nothing is rushed. Most of the wines in the range are fermented completely dry and spend between one and three years in barrel, on the full lees before being bottled, unfined and unfiltered. SO2 is used at bottling and in low levels. The wines are released “when they start to taste really good” says Marco. This of course means that there are a variety of different vintages on release at any one time. “We admit we are not sales guys,” says Marco. “We want to taste and release the wines when they are ready, not before.”
The wines from Fio are certainly very different from much of what is made and currently imported from Germany, but they are also astonishingly delicious. These are “Natural” wines in the sense that they tick all the boxes (practicing organic viticulture, no SO2 during winemaking, minimal SO2 at bottling) with inventive, Daliesque labels. The quality of the wines is rooted in old vines, steep slopes, and great vineyard material from Göldtropfchen, Josephsberg, and Falkenberg, all top sites in Piesport. Fio is producing avant-garde wines without pretense for everyday drinking.
Specs
- Country Germany
- Region Mosel
- Style White Wine
- Producer Fio Wines
- Farming Practices Organic, Biodynamic
- Grapes Riesling
- Food Pairings Stinky Cheese, Roast White Meats, Braised Things, White Sauce, Fried Food
- Characteristics Icon, Dressed to Impress, Aromatic, Zippy, Big Power, Has Age
AS SEEN IN...
A Trip to Germany
In July I went to Germany for the first time, spending almost the entire trip in the Mosel – seeing places I’ve only read about, connecting familiar faces to their home turf and, celebrating 10 years of inspired work by importer vom Boden.
With a swath of German new arrivals landing, too, it felt like a good time to reflect on the 2022 vintage, share some takeaways from the trip and share details on our next in-person event. - Chris