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2021 Philip Lardot, Riesling 'der Graf'Landwein Trocken, Mosel, Germany
$36.00
Sourced from an east-facing, grey-slated vineyard called the Piesporter Grafenberg. This wine likely wouldn’t pass the “Mosel wine authorities;” they want everything filtered and crystal clear! So Philip has to (and, I’d add, is perfectly happy to) sell it as a simple “Landwein.” The problem is that you can’t indicate the vineyard site with such a wine, so Philip has created a persona, “der Graf” or Count. This is, after all, the “Grafenberg,” or, “hill of the Count.” A similar character was created for his other Riesling: “der Hirt” or shepherd. The parcel Philip is using is about 0.2 hectare and the vines are roughly 30 years old. As with the Pinot Gris and the Pinot Noir, the grapes are purchased from an old apprentice of Ulli Stein’s. This gentleman works and owns the parcel but Philip makes important decisions and gets the grapes from the same plot(s) every year. Natural fermentation in used oak barrels from 225 to 500 liters in size, on the full lees without any S02 for one year. Then it was racked into steel for another six months to help with the settling. A very light filtration and 20ppm S02 just before bottling.
Specs
- Country Germany
- Region Mosel
- Style White Wine
- Producer Philip Lardot
- Farming Practices Organic
- Grapes Riesling
- Food Pairings Stinky Cheese, Roast White Meats, Braised Things, White Sauce, Fried Food
- Characteristics Wild Side, Aromatic, Zippy, Big Power
AS SEEN IN...
A Trip to Germany
In July I went to Germany for the first time, spending almost the entire trip in the Mosel – seeing places I’ve only read about, connecting familiar faces to their home turf and, celebrating 10 years of inspired work by importer vom Boden.
With a swath of German new arrivals landing, too, it felt like a good time to reflect on the 2022 vintage, share some takeaways from the trip and share details on our next in-person event. - Chris