2021 J.B. Becker Wallufer Oberberg Auslese Trocken Rheingau, Germany

2021 J.B. Becker Wallufer Oberberg Auslese Trocken Rheingau, Germany

$60.00

After about ten minutes of tasting this wine, in awe of its slick density, its unending length, its formidable structure, I say something like, "Hans Josef, how the fuck did you make a wine like this in 2021... an Auslese Trocken!" He looks at me, bored as always, and says matter-of-factly: "I made two Auslese Trocken in 2021." And this fact is shocking, startling, without a doubt. Yet the real impact comes from the fact that he says absolutely nothing else. We continue to sit there, just the two of us, and I look around to see if someone is filming this. Is there a German wine-bloopers You Tube channel I'm unaware of? (I make a mental note to ask my twelve-year-old if there is such a channel.) So, after this awkward pause, I say, uncomfortably: "Could I taste this wine?"

"Yes," he says.

This story is relevant, perhaps, because he then does go get the Rödchen Auslese Trocken (not on today's offer) and having the two wines side-by-side is illuminating. The Oberberg is for sure the more impressive, the more powerful and textural. I suspect this will be the favorite for most people - it is just a bit more complete and it's clear why he chose to pour it. Both Auslese Trocken, compared to the Walkenberg Spätlese Trocken, feel riper (which they are, both clock in at 13.5%) yet they also show more fruit, they are more perfumed - perhaps the higher alcohols make the wines more aromatic. There is plenty of stone fruit and citrus, dense and coating, in both Auslese Trocken. 

- Vom Boden

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