A fresh round of New Piedmont
It’s an exciting time to be a lover of Nebbiolo.
The top of estates have all but settled back into a more traditional bend and, coming up behind them, is perhaps the most ambitious group of new producers we’ve seen since opening the store.
It’s not fair to lump the growers below together. But, it is worth noting a throughline in their wines. Especially the Nebbiolos. They’re not “modern”, filled with new wood or heavy handed macerations. But, they're definitely not traditional either. Instead, it's an exciting fresh style that highlights the best aromatic qualities of the grape while diffusing the intense tannin we expect through a mixture of shorter èlevage and/or gentle maceration.
It feels very much like a new set and style for the region. And we’re here for it. We've highlighted a handful of the producers below in the past but, with new releases rolling in and many having their first Barolos landing, it felt like time to run down the who's-who making waves in the Langhe.
LALÙ
Friends Lara Rocchetti & Luisa Sala met at Pollentia’s Gastronomic Science University, and after working at some of Burgundy and Barolo's top wineries they've teamed up to make outstanding wines with the pedigree and polish that comes with their experience. We love what they’ve done with their (organic!) Langhe Nebbiolo and Barbera – both aged in large Austrian oak – and have eagerly awaited their first Barolo,from La Morra’s Le Coste vineyard.
MAFFREI
A young La Morra-based duo who are an energizing addition to Langhe's newest chapter, making pure fruited, aromatic wines.
PHILINE ISABELLE
The wines of German native Philine Isabelle Dienger are already intensely awaited, even before her first vintage hit the US last year. With an incredible background working at biodynamic estates, Philine farms a small parcel within Preda and is crafting a pure, honest representations of Nebbiolo and Chardonnay within the Langhe.
CASTRUM ROCHE
After working for Luigi Oddero and neighbor-and-legend Accomasso, Isacco Costamagna turned his attention to home: which happens to be two prime hectares he inherited in La Morra. (You can read a full profile here.) His estate is all in the hallowed Torriglione vineyard (a v culty cru among Barolo-heads). '22 is his second vintage, and first in the US: a wildly expressive Nebbiolo, that can’t help but be a serious wine despite being made simply in tank with a weeklong maceration. Reads more as ‘Baby Barolo’ than Langhe.
TREDIBERRI
The "Three from Berri!" Federico and son Nicola Oberto, and their friend Vladimiro Rambaldi, are farming organically on the western edge of La Morra. And, quietly making some of the most impressive, traditionally styled wines of any estate–brand new or generations old–in Piedmont. It's easy to forget that they're a newer kid on the block: quality is high from their killer value Langhe to their heralded Rocche dell’Annunziata, where they make a truly top tier Barolo. (Deep cut, their 'Berri' Barolo includes fruit from Costamagna's Torriglione holdings...)
FLETCHER
We have a soft spot for outsiders capable of carving a place in the most culturally-guarded corners of the wine world (think Ted Lemon in Burgundy or Hirotake Ooka in Cornas). In Barbaresco, the hands behind the much more established Ceretto – whose own style and quality has increased tremendously in the last decade – are that of Aussie David Fletcher. With access to historic vineyard sites, he makes a tiny amount of wine under his own label, Fletcher; it's confident, dreamy Nebbiolo.
CANTINA D'ARCY
After several years working with a staggering collection of the greats: Benjamin Leroux, d’Angerville, Comte Armand, Domaine du Pelican, Alain Graillot, Bindi and Pyramid Valley–New Zealander Tom Myers landed in the Langhe. The first releases show this pedigree and background in their aromatics and seamless texture; last vintage, we were blown away by his Langhe Nebbiolo and Dolcetto d'Alba, both from a cru of Preda nestled between famous Cannubi and Vignane. A new release is expected to land later this year.