Castrum Roche’s Nebbiolo
Secret vineyards blended into otherwise famous wines is a real thing. Finding them, knowing where they are – it's a pros-pro move. It’s like finding Tom Colicchio before Gramery Tavern, or Pedro Pascal before GoT.
Bad analogies aside, Barolo’s epic Torriglione is one of these secret vineyards. And, it's the source for our fav new next gen Nebbiolo from Castrum Rocche. Read on below! Plus, read more about our favorite new Piedmont producers here.
Isacco Costamagna is the man behind Barolo newcomer Castrum Roche. He inherited two prime hectares in La Morra in 2014, all in the Torriglione vineyard. It's a cru that Barolo-heads know, even if they don’t: it’s blended into the crazy-good ‘Berri’ Barolo of Trediberri; was once labeled as a (v culty) Rocche dell'Annunziata parcel by Roberto Voerzio; and, arguably the deepest cut of all, is on a handful of Bartolo Mascarello labels (as the hometown of his grandfather).
This is hallowed ground that he’s inherited, and it’s front and center in his tiny production.
Isacco in Torriglione vineyard 📷 via @isi_tannico
From 2017 to 2020 Isacco sold his estate fruit to his neighbor Trediberri (who we love!). During that time he worked for Luigi Oddero, and neighbor-and-legend Accomasso (a producer as mythic as they are difficult to find - not imported to the US); and got his degree in viticulture & oenology from University of Turin.
It was in 2021 that he turned his full attention to making his own wine, keeping the fruit for himself and launching the winery with a very, very special Langhe Nebbiolo.
2022 is only the second vintage of this wine, and the first to be in the US. It’s a wildly expressive Nebbiolo, that can't help but be a serious wine despite being made simply in tank with a weeklong maceration. It has the natural texture and breadth you see from famously packed soils like Torriglione.
When opened, it reads more "Baby Barolo" than Langhe. A delicious introduction to this very talented newcomer. And, has us patiently waiting for his first Barolo (in 2027) from the same site.
Barolo in the works 📷 via Corkhoarder