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Alessandra Divella
12/05/24
Our newest arrival, Alessandra Divella, only confirms what we knew about the town of Gussago: this is a world class corner for Champagne method wines.
Our fascination here – a Lombardy village rich with Jurassic limestone – started with the sparkling wines of Nicola Gatta, a talent whose wines feel in line with names like Bouchard and Bérèche in Champagne. Divella’s uncompromising wines electrify and, if we’re to continue the grower Champagne analogy, have a pulsing style that can't help remind sparkling heads of Prévost.
This area and its talents are the real deal. Scroll down for more.
You wouldn’t know it but you’ve probably had a bottle of wine from Gussago. Sitting high above Lombardy's Po Valley, it’s a village within the much larger (and better known) Franciacorta zone. But Alessandra Divella eschews the DOCG entirely, with wines completely distinct from those bearing the Franciacorta label.
The scale that Divella works in (i.e. very small) allows her to be truly uncompromising.
Photos via @alessandra_divella
Her 2ha of vines planted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are farmed organically with a rich cover crop bringing life to her soils. And as she works completely without dosage, the quality of her fruit must be pristine to make distinct sparkling wine (again, without any sugar). As you taste the wines, the grapes certainly vibrate with life.
And in the cellar, there is a clear mission: to naturally capture Gussago’s energetic soils. The vin clairs are spontaneously fermented, almost exclusively in old barrique. And (distinct from Gatta) her vintage wines are quick to bottle; seeing about 6-8 months of élevage before bottling, followed by anything from 30 to 96 (!) months on the lees; and no dosage, no sulfur.
This all preserves a pulsing, brisk energy in all the wines. Even those that see reserve wines blended in. The scintillating cut in Divella's wines, and (especially as you climb up the lineup) their ability to support oxygen – is frankly, thrilling.
Blanc de Blancs Dosaggio Zero Spumante, Lombardy Italy (2020)
$55 750ml / $125 1.5L
Chardonnay fermented in cement, aged in barrique and bottled the following spring with a touch of reserve wine. 30 months sur lie.
'Clo Clo' Rosé Dosaggio Zero Spumante, Lombardy, Italy (2019), $80
Second press Pinot Noir fermented and aged in used barrique, bottled the following spring with 25% reserve wine. 42 months sur lie. Named for Alessandra's mother.
'Dady' Spumante Dosaggio Zero, Lombardy, Italy (2019) $80
Chardonnay briefly macerated and fermented in 2nd/3rd pass barrique, aged in used barrique. Bottled the following spring with 25% reserve. 42 months sur lie. Named for Alessandra's favorite aunt.
'NiNi' Dosaggio Zero Spumante, Lombardy, Italy (2019) $80
50/50 Chardonnay/Pinot Noir fermented and aged in used barrique, bottled with 25% reserve wine. 42 months sur lie. Named for Alessandra's father.
Blanc de Noirs Dosaggio Zero Spumante, Lombardy Italy (2019) $100
First press Pinot Noir, aged sur lie 42 months prior to bottling, followed by an additional 60 months sur lie.
Rosé de Saignée Dosaggio Zero, Lombardy, Italy (2018) $105
Pinot Noir macerated overnight, fermented and aged in used barrique. Bottled and aged 54 months sur lie.
Solera Dosaggio Zero Spumante, Lombardy, Italy (2014-2019) $140
Pensive Solera method Chardonnay from the 2014-2019 vintages. Bottled in 2020 and aged 45 months sur lie.
'Nerè' Dosaggio Zero Spumante, Lombardy, Italy (2014) $180
Incredibly deep but electric Pinot Noir aged 96 months sur lie and disgorged this past January 2024.