Kissinger's Latest + Intro. Bastian Beny

12/03/24
It's amazing – and when you taste the wines, unsurprising – that in just a few vintages Moritz Kissinger has become one of Germany's most lauded talents.

His Chardonnay and Sekt put the little known Rheinhessen village of Uelversheim on the world stage, highlighting its pure limestone intensity with his fine hand in the cellar. There is a world class satisfaction to drinking these wines; each feeling a mile long in both flavor and freshness.

Joining this newest release is a neighboring producer (only a 7 minute drive between cellars!) making an impressive US debut: Bastian Beny.

On paper there are similarities to Kissinger: farming Biodynamically (certified in '23) with a lineup that dovetails varieties and styles (Sekt!). But the final wines are very different expressions of this place, with Beny layering more texture and oxygen over Uelversheim's limestone. Impressive, delicious new wines that only confirm how special the new guard's work is here.

MORITZ KISSINGER

If Moritz’s work is new to you, check the excellent profile on his US importer's website here.

After studying in Geisenheim and some (very) influential work with Champagne's Cedric Moussé, he took over a small piece of his family's vineyards about 7 years ago. He converted the vines to be Demeter-certified and brought his experience to the cellar and, frankly, the rest is history.


 
Below is the newest release, with the Weissburgunder and Sauvignon Blanc only on their second vintage in the states.

2022 Moritz Kissinger Weissburgunder, Rheinhessen, Germany $54
If you loved the Saalwächter edition of Pinot Blanc (like we did), you’ll love this; stony, orchard-fruited and with a little bit of '22s generosity. 

2022 Moritz Kissinger, Sauvignon Blanc, Rheinhessen Germany $54
Only 8 rows planted (!) of 30 year old vines, which spend 10 days on the skins. A mix of phenolics from the skins + citrusy limestone. 

2022 Moritz Kissinger Chardonnay, Rheinhessen, Germany $75
Arguably the wine that put him on the map, a master class in Germany’s new-guard Chardonnay. A beautiful crisp note of reduction underlies sneaky texture and cooling flavors.

2020 Moritz Kissinger Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature, Rheinhessen, Germany $70
From his oldest vines of Pinot Blanc, this is high-wire Champagne Method wine whose 30-months on the lees feel very secondary to the freshness and energy captured from its acid structure. He considers this his top cuvée.

BASTIAN BENY

A mere mile from Kissinger is upstart (and friend) Bastian Beny. A chef by trade – having worked in Michelin star kitchens – he was exposed to some of the world’s top producers and ultimately changed paths to making wine.

Bastian would end up cutting his teeth under Rheinhessen’s most famous talent (Keller), coming back to the family estate to start his own winery in 2020. Influenced by the work of Alsace's Bruno Schueller, he converted the estate to organics and is now certified Biodynamic; he makes his own compost (many certified producers still purchase theirs) and his labels highlight his flock of horned sheep who graze the vineyards.

Specifics below on winemaking but generally speaking, the wines are fermented natively, raised in old wood and see no-to-low sulfur until bottling.

It’s a pure, fruitful, confident style that we’re very excited to welcome to the fold.


2022 Bastian Beny 'Freigeist' Weiss, Rheinhessen, Germany $37
A delicious blend of Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Müller-Thurgau. All are whole cluster pressed (except vintages that have Kerner which is destemmed). Aromatic and quenching.

2022 Bastian Beny Riesling, Rheinhessen, Germany $60
Showing his tutelage under Keller, this is a fine example of Rheinhessen riesling. A mixture of vessels creates a delicious mix of texture and freshness, thrilling. 

2022 Bastian Beny Silvaner, Rheinhessen, Germany $60
50 year old vines planted on a south facing slope allows for a phenolic, firm style of Silvaner. Treated quite seriously; whole cluster pressed and raised for over a year in old wood. Gorgeous wine. 

2021 Bastian Beny Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature, Rheinhessen, Germany $72
Also from Pinot Blanc, aged 10 months in used barrels and stainless steel; bottled and aged for an additional 18 months sur latte. Deliciously Pinot Blanc in its orchard character.

SHOP UELVERSHEIM