Augereau's Anjou
A BOTTLE WE LOVE
Sylvie Augereau's 'Réjouissances'
Though Sylvie Augereau might be best known as the founder of the natural wine fair ‘La Dive’ – France’s largest and most important – the wines she makes at her tiny Anjou estate (1.4ha) might be her most personal work.
WHAT'S IN THE BOTTLE:
50/50 Pineau d'Aunis and Grolleau from 50 year old biodynamic vines in Thoureil, a village tucked between Saumur and Angers. Aged in used oak for one year and packed into just 80 cases, it’s an energetic wine full of that Loire Valley bouvabilité we can’t get enough of: bursting with red fruit, a little spice, a little earthy-chalk action, freshly structured.
It’s from a fairly-solo project by Sylvie Augereau, who works her “very old, very twisted, very tortured” vines completely by hand (and foot, and horse…) While the leap to winemaker might have seemed a clichéd next step for the wine writer and natural wine fest founder, for Sylvie it’s not so much about a desire to make wine as it is a desire to make wine from this vineyard.
It’s a place she’s patiently had her eye on for decades: purchased from her grandfather, and practically next door to the La Dive location. 1.4ha of co-planted Chenin, Cabernet, Grolleau and Pineau d’Aunis – and, Sylvie's destiny.
WHY WE DIG IT:
It's a no sulfur wine but you wouldn’t necessarily know it, with such pure fruited quality. It's also $33. And most importantly, it's touched with the spice and earth we expect (and love) from Grolleau.
HOW WE'RE DRINKING IT:
Everywhere refreshment is needed. Tbh it's honest right now while we're having this fun dip in August temps; throw a whole chicken on the grill and don't look back.