A follow-up to last year’s feature of István Bencze’s benchmark Pinot Noir, this newest release is full of his equally energetic (and important) white wines.

A rehash of István's background – and details on the lineup – is below. But in short: this is a benchmark biodynamic, zero-sulfur producer that has solidly become our standard bearer for Hungarian wine; if central European names like Tscheppe, Tauss and Nestarec make your heart flutter, consider Bencze an essential addition.

István Bencze’s circle is a who’s-who of benchmark central European producers: he studied with Tscheppe and Tauss; was mentored by Strekov; complimented heavily by friend Nestarec. So it’s no surprise that he is making Hungary’s most expressive natural wine.

Similar to many of his natural winemaking peers, István was originally an IT entrepreneur with a family history of winemaking, whose passion project a decade ago has spiraled into an eye-opening, 18 hectare Demeter-certified biodynamic estate.

He makes velvet-flocked Pinot Noir (which we waxed poetic on last year); and he farms Riesling, Chenin, and a docket of Hungary’s indigenous grapes (Furmint, Harszlevelú, Keknyelú) – including a claim to the rarest, the only plot of Bakator left, perhaps, anywhere.

THE LOCATION

Bencze's estate is tucked in a Mediterranean microclimate in the mountains north of popular vacation destination Lake Balaton – Hungary’s answer to Lake Garda.

Southeast of the (surprisingly, much smaller) Neusiedlersee, it’s central Europe’s largest lake; and, the ancestral home of Hungarian winemaking. István’s vineyards may well be on the most beautiful spot in Hungary, on the slopes of historic extinct volcano Szent György-hegy (which is also conveniently dotted with clay and limestone).

THE WINES

István's style is always a pursuit of energy, harvesting earlier than the rest of the region and maintaining a lower ABV.

And the winemaking has evolved over time to be zero-zero: no sulfur, fining or filtration here. Native fermentations and aging are in a dazzling mix of amphora, stainless steel, concrete and oak aging.

2021 Bencze Petillant Rosé, Badacsony, Hungary $29
Rosé pet-nat from red and white varieties, fermented separately in a mix of amphora and stainless steel: Cabernet Sauvignon, Blauburger, Zervin, Chenin Blanc. Blended during fermentation, bottled with 16g residual sugar and disgorged in 2022. No fining, filtration or sulfur. Per István: "The aim of this cuvée is to recall the feeling of drinking half-ready, still fermenting red wine during the end of the harvest season that is turbid, swirling, foaming, sparkling, juicy, energetic, easy-going. Like being swallowed by the ocean.” The final wine is dry, with bright and tart red currant fruit.

2022 Bencze 'Autochthon,' Badacsony, Hungary $30
"Autokhthon" means native in Greek, a nod to this cuvée's composition of varieties native to the Carpathian Basin. The fruit is all grown in István's prized 'Templomdombi' plot: 35% Furmint, 16% Kéknyelű, 49% Hárslevelű. Harvested in several passes and fermented separately: the Hárslevelű partially destemmed and fermented in open-top container, on the skins for 8 days; the Kéknyelű and Furmint whole cluster pressed and fermented in a mix of amphora. Aged on the fine lees for 9 months and bottled with no fining, filtration or sulfur. Bright, citrusy, salty; and totally electric yet intensely drinkable.

2021 Bencze Chenin Blanc, Hungary $31
Whole cluster pressed to 330 liter terracotta amphora and 330 liter used oak barrels. After resting for 11 months, bottled without fining, filtration or sulfur. Super bright, salty and textured.

2021 Bencze Riesling, Balatonmelleki, Hungary $32
From 'Templomdombi,' gently whole cluster pressed, fermented and aged in stoneware for 14 months. Bottled without fining, filtration or sulfur. Beautiful salted lemon, with volcanic electricity and ripping acidity.

2021 Bencze Furmint, Badacsony, Hungary $41
From the 'Templomdombi' plot, which includes some smaller-clustered older Furmint. Harvested in several passes, whole bunch pressed, fermented and aged in a mix of amphora for 9 months. The most intense amphora were put into this varietal cuvée, with the rest going into 'Authochton' above. Bottled without fining, filtration or sulfur. Bright, elegant, with fine green tea vibes.

SHOP BENCZE