Lienhardt's brilliant '23s

02/08/25
As ‘23 Burgundy continues to roll in, the status of the vintage is clear: climate challenges – this time, resulting in (over)abundance instead of decimation – and producers’ varying ability to react has produced an inconsistent vintage of highs and lows.
But true to Antoine Lienhardt's intuitive talents (which continue to be a buzz among French wine circles and consumers), this is a release full of highs.
More below on the newest from this biodynamic producer we really really love.

If you’re catching up: we have a compilation of our previous thoughts on Antoine’s work in our Journal here. But, in short: from the moment he convinced his grandmother to rope off a section of her garden for him to tend as a child, Antoine’s connection to nature has fueled his stature as one of the most talented (and perhaps in some circles, underrated) natural winemakers in Burgundy.

Based in the Côte de Nuits' southern village of Comblanchien, his style has evolved to aromatic, lithe wines that still manage to have no lack of tension and texture. Joyful showstoppers.
It's a complexity which for many winemakers was a stretch to achieve in 2023.

The relieving lack of frost and hail, followed by recurring spikes of temperatures and humidity, required a particularly skilled use of green harvest to keep yields in check. A very hot stretch continued into the early September harvest, meaning picks had to end by lunchtime with grapes cooled off in the cellar; as temps continue to climb, the use of cold chambers and reefers are becoming an increasing necessity in Burgundy.

Photos via Antoine Lienhardt
  

Antoine's pulled off this balance between taking advantage of the abundant fruit and keeping quality uncompromising. With ‘24 shaping up to be historically tiny, this is a limited release, with the rest of ‘23 arriving later alongside ‘24:

2023 Antoine Lienhardt Grand Crew Rouge, VDF $36
A dark rosé (or 'rouge light?') made as an homage to the harvest crew. Rhône Valley Syrah, Grenache Blanc and Viognier, macerated semi-carbo for a week before pressing into concrete egg; aged 8 months. Delicious, limited!

2023 Antoine Lienhardt Coteaux Bourguignons 'Gamayoptere' $38
Gamay grown in Fixin, fermented whole cluster for one week, pressed to a mix of stainless steel, amphora and fiberglass egg. Minimal sulfur added at bottling. Crushable and Passetoutgrain-adjacent.

2023 Antoine Lienhardt Bourgogne Pinot Noir $55
From two Comblanchien vineyards, l'Etaing and La Platerre, which have especially concentrated fruit. Fermented whole cluster, semi-carbonic in stainless steel, aged a full year in neutral oak with minimal sulfur added at bottling. Particularly energetic and serious quality Bourgogne Rouge.

2022 Antoine Lienhardt Bourgogne Aligoté, Burgundy, France $46
Biodynamic Aligoté Doré from vines in an old Gallo-Roman villa in Comblanchien. Textured, salty, mineral; we consider it essential for fans of Aligoté.

2021 Antoine Lienhardt Bourgogne Aligoté [35 mois d'elevage] $63
Same site as the Aligoté Doré above, but with much longer élevage, a total of three years. Crazy complex!!

2023 Antoine Lienhardt Cote de Nuits-Villages 'Les Essards' $70
From a Comblanchien limestone vineyard planted by Antoine's father in the '60s. 100% destemmed and fermented in closed tank for about two weeks. Aged one year in oak (10% new), with minimal sulfur added at bottling only.

2023 Antoine Lienhardt Côte de Nuits-Villages 'Emphase' $80
Blend of six parcels around Comblanchien, avg. vine age of 65 years. Fermented whole cluster, semi-carbonic in stainless steel, aged one year in barrel. Made with the specific intention of showing how much complexity can come from blending, it is a beautiful, special bottle of Burgundy.

2022 Antoine Lienhardt Meursault Blanc Sous la Velle $145
From a plot that perhaps needs no introduction ;) 60 year old vines with almost two years of élevage. Minimal sulfur at bottling. Limit of 1 bottle per customer.

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