From old heritage vines in Valle de Calingasta, the lineup from El Montañista is made thoughtfully; and drinks joyfully.

Oh, and all three cuvées are $26 ;)

The material here is serious: 80+ year-old vines in the high altitude (and quite remote) Paraje Hilario vineyard, situated just north of Mendoza in Argentina's Valle de Calingasta.

All of the vines are heritage 'Criolla' varieties, with the wines made as field blends of red and white grapes.

It's all organically farmed and made by winemakers-and-mountaineers Francisco (Pancho) Bugallo and Nuria Añó Gargiulo (you might recognize Pancho as one of three names behind another longtime shop fave, Cara Sur).  The vineyard's remarkable dry and remote disposition is perfect for controlling disease, and facilitating traditional (which in this case, means very natural) winemaking. Whole clusters are favored, yeasts are natural, and the wines are fermented and aged in concrete.

The wines are refreshing, vibrant, and thoroughly chillable; styles that oddly remind us of favorite French country wines.

2024 El Montañista 'Corte de Blancas' Calingasta Valley, Argentina, $26
Field blend of Torrentés Sanjuanino and Torrontés Mendocino (with touches of Malvasia and Maticha). Fresh, zesty, saline; without the often cloying aromatics of Torrontés. Truly tasty.

2024 El Montañista 'Corte de Tintas' Calingasta Valley, Argentina, $26
Field blend of Criolla Chica (aka Listán Prieto or País), Criolla Grande, Cereza, Canela, and Moscatel Tinto. Savory, juicy, and rose-scented; walks the line between chilled red and dark rosé. Everyone will love it.

2023 El Montañista 'Viejas Tintas' Calingasta Valley, Argentina, $26
Field blend of old Piemontese varieties brought to Argentina in the 19th century: Barbera, Bonarda, Greco Nero, Rabosso Veronese, Cardin, and Freisa. Dark berry jam meets cooling forest vibes. Totally fascinating.

SHOP EL MONTAÑISTA

The remote vineyard and winery; the family; massive old vines in Paraje Hilario. Photos via José Pastor Selections