As much discussed last year, Spätburgunder is having its moment.

In a relatively short span of time, names like Wasenhaus, Bernhard Huber and Enderle & Moll have risen to cult status, all with Pinot Noir at the center of their work. The other common thread is their location in Baden: also home to Jakob Moise.

As a biodynamic consultant for around 200 wineries in the area, it’s likely that no one knows Baden’s parcels in the depth that Jakob does.

After his time learning the ropes on Mt Etna with Franck Cornelissen was interrupted by the pandemic, Jakob returned home to another volcanic site: Baden's Kaiserstuhl. He’s now farming a total of around one hectare directly, based in Ehrenkirchen (neighboring Wasenhaus’ Staufen). We recently tasted his 3rd vintage (2023); and it's in a beautiful place.

The wines are lithe, with almost nonexistent extraction, fruit (mostly) destemmed and short élevage that allow for a remarkably transparent view of Baden fruit.

Details on his ‘23 release are below; if the names above are already in your repertoire, the vineyard sites that Jakob works with will be familiar, as well.

Particularly with the pricing here at a remarkable entry point for the category (and high quality:price ratio), it’s worth taking a quick look at Baden itself.

Just over the border from Strasbourg and tucked between the Vosges Mountains and the Black Forest, Baden is a microclimate fairly protected from cold and rain. Add the warm Mediterranean air flowing in from the Burgundische Pforte (Burgundian Gate), and you have Germany’s warmest growing region – and its spiritual homeland for Pinot.

The wines here are aromatic, transparent; with cooling herbs and fresh fruit that speak more to the forested surroundings than to oak or extraction.

2023 Jakob Moise Spätburgunder, Baden $36
A selection of Jakob’s younger vines, grown on Loess soil. Fully destemmed and raised 50/50 in Stockinger and used Burgundy barrel. His plushest Pinot, but still very light on its feet; gorgeous intro to Baden.

2023 Jakob Moise Spätburgunder 'Kaiserstuhl', Baden $39
From a tiny parcel in Germany’s warmest site (and extinct volcano), the Kaiserstuhl. Jakob’s vines here are in a windy, higher altitude spot, and this is also his only cuvée to include ⅓ whole clusters – all maintaining freshness in the final wine. Aged in used Burgundy barrel. On the more savory end.

2023 Jakob Moise Spätburgunder 'Belmont' Baden $44
From a parcel on the same hillside as Wasenhaus’ ‘Möhlin’ where just a meter of clay topsoil covers dense Muschelkalk limestone; aged in used Burgundy barrel. Has a touch of beautiful reduction, and tightly-knit red fruit. A pure view of German limestone.

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Photos: Enderle & Moll's sites in Baden; Jakob in his parcels. Photos via Vom Boden and Jakob Moise