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Domaine des Rouges Queues
07/17/24
Burgundy’s Maranges – the Côte de Beaune’s most southern growing area – has come on strong lately with a swath of talent and a number of memorable wines.
It's historically been in the shadow of more famous appellations to the north, and only even recognized as its own appellation in 1989. Before then it was simply found in appellation-level Côte de Beaune bottlings, charmingly referred to as vins de médecin and used to add flesh to the thinner wines farther north.
But, as Burg hounds know, there’s a reason young talents (Cassiopée, Bachelet-Monnot, Maison En Belles Lies) and legends alike (yes, even Leroy is making wine here now; it’s…expensive) are making wine here: it's south facing, with rich soils, and the wines punch well above their price points.
Arguably the first grower to know this and go all-in almost 30 years ago is Domaine des Rouges-Queues. Their newest release has arrived and, with word of a nearby retirement, we can’t emphasize this opportunity to try their wines enough.
The domaine is the work of Isabelle and Jean-Yves Vantey. Starting out in 1996 with just 1ha of vines in Sampigny-Lès-Maranges (with ‘98 being their first vintage), they’ve grown to farm 6ha of – now certified biodynamic – vines in Maranges, and spilling into the surrounding appellations.
Isabelle and Jean-Yves Vantey 📷 via MFW Wine Co.The usual suspects of natural farming and winemaking are at play: hand harvesting, spontaneous ferments in open top wood and SS, aging in used barrels (around a year), bottled without SO2 whenever possible. They flex where nature takes them, and started aggressively going more whole cluster in 2018 but have dialed that back in more recent vintages, using somewhere between 50-75% depending on the cuvées.
These are inarguably some of the most soulful, pure-fruited wines in all of Burgundy – a must-try for any devotee of the region’s trailblazers.
2021 Domaine des Rouges-Queues Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, Burgundy, France $45
A breezy but refined intro to the estate's style. Made with the same methods mentioned above, with just about two weeks of maceration to keep the fruit fresh and lithe.
A breezy but refined intro to the estate's style. Made with the same methods mentioned above, with just about two weeks of maceration to keep the fruit fresh and lithe.
2021 Domaine des Rouges-Queues Maranges 'En Buliet' Côte de Beaune, France $54
The domaine's original parcel! With some plantings almost 100 years old, there's more clay here and the wine has more earth-driven, weightier fruit. Straight up delicious.
The domaine's original parcel! With some plantings almost 100 years old, there's more clay here and the wine has more earth-driven, weightier fruit. Straight up delicious.
2021 Domaine des Rouges-Queues 'La Fussiere', Maranges Premier Cru, France $68
From one of the two Premier Cru sites they farm in eastern Maranges. Mid-slope with fully southern exposure, the fruit is really developed (without being overripe); there's a touch of spice and earth and a structure that's age-worthy but still very approachable in its youth. A really elegant demonstration of Maranges' powerful fruit.
From one of the two Premier Cru sites they farm in eastern Maranges. Mid-slope with fully southern exposure, the fruit is really developed (without being overripe); there's a touch of spice and earth and a structure that's age-worthy but still very approachable in its youth. A really elegant demonstration of Maranges' powerful fruit.
2021 Domaine des Rouges-Queues 'Clos Roussots', Maranges Premier Cru, France $68
From another, higher elevation, Premier Cru site in eastern Maranges. With less topsoil and greater elevation, it's a fairly exposed site that really allows for the terroir to shine through in the wine. Pure-fruited, cherry-over-minerals Burgundy.
From another, higher elevation, Premier Cru site in eastern Maranges. With less topsoil and greater elevation, it's a fairly exposed site that really allows for the terroir to shine through in the wine. Pure-fruited, cherry-over-minerals Burgundy.