Elian da Ros *is* Marmande

07/15/24
Sometimes, it only takes one person to change the industry’s perception of a region.
Ronchi di Cialla did it for little-known Schioppettino in Friuli, Château Simone did it for Palette in Provence; and over the last 25 years, Elian da Ros has unquestionably done it for the Côtes du Marmandais.
Tucked below Bordeaux – technically in the SudOuest – da Ros’s farming (biodynamic, certified) and deeply sensual wines (incl. from the local Abouriou grape) are as soulful and impressive as Southern French wine gets. Elian's wines might be new to many; but have been well traveled among industry insiders for years.
If names like Granges des Peres, Gassac and Trevallon are important to you (spoiler: they very much are to us), we can’t recommend enough that you scroll down for more.

Elian in the vineyard; 📷 via MFW Wine Co

Côtes du Marmandais was never a place for fine wine; the generation before us knew it more for tomatoes than anything else. This all changed in ‘98 when Elian returned to his hometown of Cocumont, fresh from working for Alsace icon Zind Humbrecht.
 
With the area’s winemaking largely dissolved by then, it was his pick of limestone and gravel terroirs; and he quickly established a hilly estate of 20 hectares. It’s been farmed organically from the start alongside his wife (and winemaking peer) Sandrine Farrugia, and eventually certified biodynamic.
  
The first true grower-producer of the Côtes du Marmandais AOP, he’s now synonymous with the appellation.
The winemaking (and labels!) vary cuvée to cuvée, but all done with the same natural approach. Fermentations are in concrete, but there’s an impressive range of aging vessels (used wood in a variety of sizes, concrete eggs, amphorae):
Variety at Elian da Ros; 📷 via MFW Wine Co
 
The wines have an oomph and polish that puts them shoulder to shoulder with producers 3x the price.
Varieties lean more Bordeaux than Sud-Ouest – Cab(s), Merlot, Sauv Blanc, Semillon. But, there’s a touch of Syrah in the mix plus local Abouriou: a burly, thick-skinned red grape which Elian deftly tames through semi-carbonic maceration.

The reds are serious and finessed; the whites are voluptuous and call quality Roussillon to mind. And, if a fun chillable glou-glou is more your speed this weekend – there’s some of that, too...
2021 'COUCOU BLANC', SUD OUEST, VDF $51
Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris and Sémillon. Textured and complex – leaning exotic, even – it's both full-bodied and fresh at the same time. Floral, citrus fruit, with a tarte aux mirabelles vibe that reminds us Elian is a disciple of Alsace.
2021 'OUTRE ROUGE', CÔTES DU MARMANDAIS, FRANCE $28
85% Abouriou, with the rest equal parts Malbec, Syrah, and Cabernet Franc. The aforementioned chillable glou-glou! Juicy light red (almost a rosé tbh) vinified with three different techniques: carbonic maceration, saignée, and press.
2021 'ABOURIOU ROUGE', CÔTES DU MARMANDAIS, FRANCE $32
100% Abouriou made with an ultra elegant touch that's signature to Elian. In his words: "I chose semi-carbonic maceration as my way of expressing this wine, but I didn’t want to hide the terroir or the character of the grape. Abouriou is a fruity wine with a touch of spice wrapped up in soft and supple tannins."
2018 'CLOS BAQUEY', CÔTES DU MARMANDAIS, FRANCE $62
Elian's top wine, an age-worthy blend of Merlot, Abouriou, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc. The Abouriou is whole cluster fermented, while the other varieties are destemmed; after almost two years in used barrel, the varieties are blended and aged an additional two years in concrete and bottle prior to release. Soft dark fruit, minerals, wild herbs, with the most sublime texture.