Dostert's Newest Limestone Bombs

04/22/25

Jonas Dostert sets a high bar, and for the last several vintages his wines have been some of the most limestone-driven bottles to come our way.
But unlike the cellar-worthy Chablis we often compare it to, or renowned Rieslings from the Mosel’s more prime real estate, these wave the flag of a unique place: the Obermosel.

More below plus details on this release, which includes his '23s, a (new!) Chardonnay/Elbling sparkling, and an amped-up bottling of his signature 'Carambolage.'

(If you need any more proof that Germany stands shoulder-to-shoulder with Europe's other limestone-driven, Chardonnay-flocked regions, see excellent context here via Eric Asimov.)

Tbh, we’ve said it a lot: Germany is redefining its wine culture more drastically than any other in Europe. And perhaps no one’s pushing the boundary of how we view German wine more than Jonas Dostert.

Just a short drive from the steep, slate-laden slopes of the middle Mosel and Saar valleys, the rolling hills of Dostert's Obermosel are still a somewhat obscure corner of German wine country. Tracing the borders of France and Luxembourg, the Obermosel is not defined by Riesling; rather distinctively, it’s defined by an incredible streak of limestone – actually, the very same streak which runs a straight shot through to Chablis.

The rolling hills of the Obermosel 📷 via Vom Boden

Here, the main event is Elbling: a grape mostly known for snappy, refreshing wines but uniquely capable of capturing the area’s cool climate with razor sharp precision. While a couple (almost entirely unknown in the US) producers have been making more thoughtful wine from the grape for some time, Dostert has really changed the game here forever.

And, while he has become synonymous with poster-child Elbling, he's also producing incredibly serious wine from limestone-loving Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Not only showcasing the Obermosel, but at a level that rivals the world's greatest terroirs.

Jonas in the cellar 📷 via Vom Boden

Farming is organic; the grapes are generally given a gently press and put directly to neutral barrel. Vintage after vintage, Jonas finds a gorgeous balance between fruit and reduction (he worked for a few years in the cellars at Leflaive so he learned a thing or too about how to work with oak 😏).

Nervy, detailed wines that grasp the thrilling space between acid and oxygen.

Following the Obermosel's extremely challenging '22 vintage which was plagued by drought, the '23 release is beautifully balanced and marks the return of his varietal Elbling, now sourced exclusively from old vines. He's also chosen to blend his sought-after Pinot Noir from '22 into his all-encompassing, playful 'Carambolage' cuvée — meaning we won’t see a red again until the 2024 vintage release. 

And of course, the Chardonnay bottlings punch well above their weight, continuing to outperform plenty of much pricier Burgundy bottlings. There's also a '21 Chardonnay/Elbling Cremant here, absolutely not to be missed.

Full details for each wine on our website.

NV Jonas Dostert, "Rochus #21" Cremant, Mosel, Germany (2021) $48
Jonas Dostert 'Gros Carambolage', Mosel $32
2023 Jonas Dostert Elbling Alte Reben, Mosel $35
2023 Jonas Dostert 'Pure Dolomite' Chardonnay/Elbling, Mosel $40
2023 Jonas Dostert Chardonnay, Mosel $46

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