Dry wine from Tokaj might sound progressive stateside, where we admittedly don't drink enough Hungarian wine and standard education would lead you to believe the region is only suited to its (genuinely delicious) sweet elixirs.

But—like our favorite natural names in places like Anjou or Banyuls—there are talented producers who see their region with powerful, dry renditions of indigenous (and electric) white grapes.

Our newest addition to the shop, Szóló, does just that (ticking biodynamic and no-sulfur boxes along the way), with a duo of white and orange that happens to be picture-perfect for dipping temps and crunchy leaves.

2021 Szolo Levegő Tokaj, Hungary, $35
Levegő = air. 100% Furmint from a single parcel planted in volcanic loess, directly pressed into a mix of concrete and ceramic eggs. Aged on the lees for ten months and bottled unfined, unfiltered, unsulfured. The wine starts with reduction and zest that almost borders on spritzy, but quickly unfolds into almost unctuous lemon-lime citrus. Think: hydration drink on a hike.

2021 Szolo 'Tűz' Tokaj, Hungary, $36
Tűz = fire. 100% Furmint from a single parcel planted in rhyolitic tuff, macerated in two halves: one half ferments with its skins for two weeks, and the other for a full month. The wine is then aged for two years in used oak, and bottled unfined, unfiltered, unsulfured. The result bears intense butterscotch and spice aromatics that bring our minds to sweet Tokaj; quickly brought back to center by crisp texture and freshness. Autumn in a bottle.

Winemaker Tímea Éless and her husband Tamás have spent the last decade+ acquiring, parcel by parcel, 12 hectares of 60-80 year old vines around Tokaj (tucked up by the borders of Ukraine and Slovakia). They farm biodynamically, do not use sulfur, and vinify a range of entirely single-vineyard wines in porcelain egg for the purest expression of the area's volcanic soils, primarily rhyolite tuff.

Tímea and her eggs; phases of fermentation. Photos via @szolowine

Each cuvée named for the elements, the wines sit in that thrilling balance between ripping acidity and textural complexity, rich and refreshing all at once; our early fall ideal for white wine.

And—particularly with the extra touch of age here—incredible value under $40.

SHOP SZOLO