The wines of Folias de Baco (aka UIVO) are not new on our shelf – and tbh, with their sheer deliciousness and a price point that's increasingly unheard of, they're easy to take for granted.

But, fresh off another eye-opening visit to Portugal we can easily report back: the work is well worth digging into.

With regenerative farming and a spirit of innovation, winemaker Tiago Sampaio has transformed a multigenerational family estate into a benchmark of Portuguese natural wine.

The resume is there: he grew up walking the vines on his grandfather's shoulders; studied agriculture in Portugal and earned a PhD in enology from Oregon State; and he's well-traveled. But where Tiago stands out is his restless desire to push the boundaries of what is possible in Douro.

"Now that he has mastered the rules of wine...he relishes in breaking them." importer GK Selections

His estate is based in Cima Corgo, a sub-appellation of the Alto Douro perched in the larger region's mountainous north. Here the vineyards are planted into steep granite and schist slopes around 700m altitude, and indigenous varieties thrive (naturally). The mountains bring freshness, balance; and importantly, facilitate a minimal intervention approach.

However, Tiago's specific location in Cima Corgo is a touch warmer, and so he has adapted the farming to insulate the soil with a layer of organic humus. In some spots, inches thick; and (as Chris experienced firsthand last month) when you peel it back and touch the soil underneath, it's remarkably cool and damp. Rare, smart farming.

Tiago in his humus-laden vineyard

In addition to his use of biodynamic and regenerative techniques in the vineyard, Tiago has brought experimental (but in actuality, quite traditional) methods: playing with skin contact, 'palhete' co-fermentation, and pet-nat production at scale.

The result is a suite of wines that exude joyful personality, refreshing and interesting to their core.

2022 Folias de Baco 'Uivo' Curtido Branco Pet Nat, Douro, $28
Moscatel Galego from 40 year old vines grown at 600m. Several weeks of skin maceration in cement is followed by native fermentation; bottled midway to allow the fermentation to finish in bottle.

2024 Folias de Baco 'Uivo' Curtido Branco, Douro, $24
Moscatel Galego from 35+ year old vines, partially destemmed and macerated for 4 months. Native fermentation in cement is followed by two months sur lie; aged in cement for 6 months, unfined, unfiltered.

2024 Folias de Baco 'Uivo' Renegado Vinhas Velhas, Douro, $22
A field blend of 25+ varieties meticulously harvested separately from 80 year old vines, macerated whole cluster for 3 days followed by fermentation in 1000L granite lagars. Followed by 6 months on the lees with battonage, and aged 6 months in a combination of used chestnut oak and cement; unfined, unfiltered.

ICYWW: 'UIVO' is pronounced "wee-voh" and directly translates to howl, a reference to the connection to nature that Tiago fosters in his vineyards (and, frequent visits from the local foxes).

Tiago in the winery; in the vineyard (with Chris!)

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