Jakob Moise's sole wine from 2024 is a metaphoric bottle that reminds us—great talents can still do brilliant things in difficult vintages.

As a biodynamic consultant for around 200 wineries in the area, it’s likely that no one knows Baden’s parcels in the depth that Jakob does. His personal work is normally bottled by terroir: an entry cuvée rooted in loess; a tiny parcel in warm, volcanic Kaiserstuhl; and 'Belmont' (from the same hillside as Wasenhaus’ ‘Möhlin’), where just a meter of clay topsoil covers dense Muschelkalk limestone. All Spätburgunder, in the lithe, aromatic style he achieves with almost nonexistent extraction, fruit mostly destemmed and short élevage that gives a remarkably transparent view of Baden fruit. 

But even Baden—usually well insulated by its forested mountains—was not immune to the crushing rain and disease pressure in 2024. Jakob sold his village-level wine to the local co-op, and Kaiserstuhl was a virtual loss; what remained was Belmont (and only 600 bottles) labeled here as landwein.

2024 Jakob Moise Spätburgunder Landwein, Baden, Germany, $39

Despite that declassification, Jakob's signature remains: charming wine, with a kiss of oak and the almost-weightless timbre we've seen from other talented producers in this stunted vintage.

This wine was 100% destemmed and fermented in ceramic clayver, aged in used Burgundy barrel. The result is infused with fresh herbs and lifted, dark fruit that speak more to the forested surroundings than oak or extraction.

While the "more" will have to wait until the next release, we're excited to hear that his work has expanded: Jakob is now farming just over a hectare, including Chardonnay (and, a future white wine release).

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