Super Natural Beujolais: Clos Bateau
On the bleeding edge of natural Beaujolais, Clos Bateau's low intervention, infusion approach builds on the savvy ways a whole generation of growers is bringing freshness to increasingly warm vintages.

Dutch expats Sylvie de Visser and Thierry Klok were so inspired by the natural wine movement, they left their life in Amsterdam's restaurant scene in 2019 and headed for France. They landed in Lantignié, a western Beaujolais village edging Régnié and, increasingly, an unofficial Cru where talented winemakers—Yann Bertrand and the Bret brothers among them—have been drawn to a quietly stunning array of pink granite and volcanic bluestone terroirs.


Photos via @closbateau
Along with their children and a team of sheep, Sylvie and Thierry are farming 8 hectares (5.5 under vine) biodynamically, with an emphasis on biodiversity and plantings of fruit and nut trees that spill into the vineyards.
Like many of their peers, they are making no-sulfur, semi-carbonic renditions of Beaujolais; but the work distinctly reflects an unwavering commitment to nature, Gamay and Chardonnay through a lens of moon cycles and experimentation with élevage (including ceramic 'kuras' made from the vineyards' clay).
2024 Clos Bateau 'Ousia' Rosé Beaujolais VDF, $45
Co-ferment of Gamay and Chardonnay, in fiberglass tank
2024 Clos Bateau 'May Ga' Beaujolais-Lantignié, $45
No-sulfur Gamay aged in Burgundy barrel, dark and exotically spiced
2024 Clos Bateau, 'Jou Jou', Beaujolais VDF, $47
50 year old Gamay grown on pink granite aged in tank, bright and silky
2024 Clos Bateau 'Croix Pennet' Beaujolais-Lantignié, $49
Gamay on the border with Regnié, aged in used Burgundy barrel
2024 Clos Bateau Beaujolais Blanc, $50
Chardonnay in a clay-heavy terroir, directly pressed and aged in amphora