Monteraponi's Gran Selezione đȘđȘđȘ
It took 10 years but Gran Selezione is finally getting it right.
The newest quality level from Chianti Classico, intended to reflect the âGrand Cruâ wines from the appellation, has been a baffling bummer since its inception in 2014 â confusing wine lovers instead of inspiring them. Its aging requirements and ever-changing allowances of varietals outside of Sangiovese made for inky wines that felt less of terroir than of cellar. But, excitingly, that is changing with some overdue rule changes. The most important: the wines must be 100% Sangiovese as of the yet-to-released 2022 vintage.
With many of our favorite producers believing that Sangiovese is Chianti Classicoâs purest expression, theyâve held out on labeling any of their wines as Gran Selezione. But, like the rules, this is changing.
Perhaps the most exciting entry to Gran Selezione is Monteraponiâs '19 'Bragantino.' Simply, it is sublime. From a new plot planted in 2003 of carefully selected vine material, itâs what weâve wanted Gran Selezione to be all along. More below!
In 2003, Michele Braganti and Alessandra Deiana planted their newest plot. This would be their first expansion since inheriting the land from Bragantiâs father and launching Monteraponi.
Itâs a plot next to BaronâUgo (what they consider their top plot, in the Riserva), once home to olive trees and with little top soil to mask Radda's famous limestone soils. Hoping to get the finest vine material, they sourced the cepperelo clone of Sangiovese (made famous by Isole e Olena) from Burgundy-based Guilllaume nursery.
So, itâs no surprise that their newest plot would also be the source for their newest, and arguably most eye opening, wine. Itâs fermented exactly like the other reds (in cement) but, it's their sole red made from 100% Sangiovese. And it sees the longest amount of time in wood at 42 months.
The result is an explosion of Raddaâs flavors, bursting with aromatics of the thick forest that surrounds it, and the fresh fruit that Sangiovese-on-limestone provides. It's in a league with their neighboring legend's 'Le Pergole Torte.'
The name 'Bragantino' is a nod to Micheleâs nickname growing up. And the very unique label is Michele's father's favorite painting, by artist Nino Tirinnanzi; a rendition of a jovial man sitting in Florence. Enjoying a glass. The original hangs in the winery.
Lastly, itâs worth noting that if the price waters your eyes. The Chianti Classico and Riservas have truly never been better, and reflect the overall quality of the work being done here in Radda.