New-Gen Jura from Crinquand
Quantities just can't keep up with the collective love for small, talented growers in Jura. So, it’s especially exciting when a (very touted) new name comes along to round out our shelf – enter Julien Crinquand.
He’s one of the small-but-somehow-still-growing group of producers who’ve learned from the region’s greats (in this case, natural wine world icon Fabrice Dodane of Domaine de Saint Pierre) bringing inspiration and ways of working back to the family vineyards.
The wines are an impressive addition to his Arbois community, naturally made and speaking in the key of his old employer Philippe Bornard and aforementioned mentor Dodane. If that referential style speaks to you, check out the details below.
Though using the natural methods he’s learned from his mentor, Julien has developed a style with its own signature; ethereal, lacy, quietly complex.
He’s farming his grandfather’s (organic!) vineyards in the hills dotting the edge of Arbois, which historically were sold to the local co-op. Working in a farmhouse-turned-cellar on the estate, the winemaking is low intervention but very precise.
Reds from Poulsard and Pinot Noir are de-stemmed (cheekily, to fit more in the space), while the Chardonnay below is fermented whole-cluster; extracting so much character and energy from the fruit. It’s all rounded out with the use of tanks and older demi-muids, native yeasts, an extremely limited (usually none) use of sulfur, and long élevage (often 24-36 months) to give the wines space to deepen and breathe.
Julien is bottling these as 'Les Canons du Jean' (read: bottles of Jean), a nod to his grandfather.
THE WINES
2022 Julien Crinquand 'Les Canons du Jean' Arbois Cuvee Capucine
Easily the wildest wine in the bunch, an ardently and confidently natural-styled Chardonnay that grasps the famous salty marl soils here.
2022 Julien Crinquand 'Les Canons du Jean' Arbois Le Rouge
A joyous blend that brings together the freshness of Poulsard with a Pinot he described as especially powerful in 2022.
2022 Julien Crinquand 'Les Canons du Jean' Arbois Le Coup de Plou
The detail of Arbois Poulsard in all its glory. Persistant in its lively red fruited and bergamont flavors.