On the Edge of Burgundy

01/06/25
Raphaëlle Guyot is solidly among the generation of micro-négociant producers we’ve been admiring these last several years.
Like the peers in this set, the estate is decidedly unique from the Burgundian brass: in her case, aside from natural farming and winemaking techniques, it’s very much about the location of her vines.
And, while she is certainly a micro-négoce – she does also farm her own estate fruit (holdings which only continue to grow in both hectares and beautiful quality).
More below, with both négoce and estate cuvées on offer.

Raphaëlle’s domaine is in her home département of Yonne, on the technical edge of Burgundy but truly closer to the Loire Valley than the Côte d'Or. Actually, her town of Puisaye-Forterre is almost equidistant from both Chablis and Sancerre (👋 Kimmeridgian).

Raphaëlle's good boy, and limestone! Photo via MFW

Before Burgundy was even on her mind, Raphaëlle attended business school. It’s here that her eyes were opened to the wine world (by a bottle of Jo Landron’s ‘Amphibolite’) and her aspirations quickly moved to wine.

Less than a decade later, she'd establish her own domaine – that is, after building an almost-impossible resumé: an oenology degree from Beaune, and internships at an impressive range of France’s most iconic estates (Domaine Thibault Liger Belair, Domaine de la Grange Tiphaine, Vincent Pinard, Clos du Rouge Gorge, Athénaïs de Béru, Cyril Fahl, and Coralie and Damien Delecheneau).

Raphaëlle in her vineyard; photo via MFW Wine Co.

Farming is biodynamic and polycultural. Plantings are decidedly dense, and Raphaëlle cultivates grains, lentils, livestock, alongside her vines. She started with reviving about 1.5ha of overgrown old parcels; expanding to about 10 total hectares (but winemaking is currently from a very small set of these vines, much of that total was only recently replanted). She’s working with all native fermentations and a restrained use of sulfur in the cellar.

In addition to tiny quantities of her estate wines, she also makes cuvées from a more expansive négoce project with fruit from the larger Auxerrois region, especially Saint-Bris and Irancy.

In a word, the wines are energetic. Take it from Chris: “Even the reds feel Chablisian, they’re very fresh…” Truly special wines that speak to this less-beaten edge of Bourgogne.

Prized by those in the know, and more than worth a taste for lovers of natural Burgundy who aren’t yet acquainted. Cheat sheet: the estate wines are labeled with a simpler script design, and the négoce wines have circular art stamps.

ESTATE WINES

2023 Raphaelle Guyot 'Les Hates' Yonne, France $42
From a .5 hectare parcel of Pinot Noir, planted in 2002 but overgrown with wild plants and fruit trees. Raphaëlle intensively rehabbed the limestone-rich site, and the results are outstanding. Fermentation with whole bunch and destemmed fruit, aged in old oak for 5 months.

2023 Raphaelle Guyot 'Les Robinettes' Yonne $52 / magnum $105
Pinot Noir from a quite densely planted limestone hillside parcel, facing south/southeast and surrounded by beautifully biodiverse vegetation, rehabbed by Raphaëlle. 100% whole cluster fermentation, aged a full year in old oak. Stunningly pure-fruited and alive.

NÉGOCE WINES

2023 Raphaelle Guyot 'L'Aurore' VDF, Yonne $35 / magnum $80
Chardonnay from a plot just outside Saint Bris, direct-press and aged in old barrel for 7 months. Reminiscent of her Muscadet inspiration ;) Super crisp, cooling and fresh.

2023 Raphaelle Guyot 'Galatée' Aligoté, Burgundy, VDF $37
Organic Aligoté acqiured from Domaine Verret in Saint-Bris-Le-Vineau. Direct-press, aged a full year in old barrel. Electric.

2023 Raphaelle Guyot 'Les L'Idylle' Yonne, France $38
Pinot Noir from a clay and limestone site in Auxerrois. 70% whole bunch, 30% destemmed, with infusion style maceration and aged in stainless steel for 6 months. Earthy, brambly, fresh.

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