It's Thomas de Marne's second release since he took over his mother Val Frison's organic Aube estate.

For those new to the wines, the domaine is located in the southeast corner of Champagne’s Aube. A wine-lovers favorite since the early aughts, Valérie Frison began farming organically and turned over the estate from co-op supply to estate bottled wines under the guidance of neighbor and friend Bertrand Gautherot of Vouette & Sorbée.

2024 marked the full transition of the estate to Val's son, Thomas de Marne, and his partner Florie Pilares; the labels now bear Thomas' name (though cuvée names mostly stay the same, for now).

Thomas and Florie; photo via @champagne.thomasdemarne

There's a mix of both Portlandian and Kimmeridgian limestone here, historically bottled separately with a preference for picking later in the season so they can bottle all of the wines without any dosage. So far, Thomas has generally maintened this approach, with élevage in old wood (barrique and 500L).

Last year's release was the first of his wines, and we're now receiving his second release of 'Goustan' Blanc de Noirs and another tranche of Coteaux.

The wines are distinct, driven and deeply quenching, presenting that late season picking as a fine-tuned balance "made in the vineyard" but expressed through thoughtful cellar work.

2022 Thomas de Marne Coteaux Champenois 'Thomas' Blanc, Champagne, France, $90

The domaine's first Coteaux, added by Thomas; blend of Chardonnay and direct press Pinot Noir. Absolutely delicious, limestone-driven wine.

Thomas de Marne 'Goustan' Blanc de Noirs Brut Nature, Champagne, France (R22), $96

Pure Pinot Noir from a mixture of blocks on the estate, raised in old wood and bottled without dosage or sulfur. A brisk but quenching Champagne.

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