2013 Ermes Pavese Blanc de Morgex et de La Salle “Ventanni” Aosta Valley, Italy

2013 Ermes Pavese Blanc de Morgex et de La Salle “Ventanni” Aosta Valley, Italy

$54.00

In 1993, Ermes Pavese made the bold decision—still uncommon in this corner of the Valle d’Aosta—to begin bottling his own wine rather than selling off the fruit from his tiny then-two-hectare farm to the local co-operative. To commemorate the 20th anniversary of that fortuitous moment, the family held back a portion of their 2013 production to be released later as a library wine, and we are now the lucky recipients of a pristinely aged Prié Blanc from Ermes’s meticulously tended extreme-altitude vineyards. Prié with a bit of bottle age begins to round out, although its rapier-like acidity remains the wine’s predominant structural element, and the fruit undergoes a Riesling-esque transformation into gentle petrol. With this 2013, a gunflint-like smoke—always a terroir marker in Blanc de Morgex—has taken center stage, relegating the savory citrus and stone fruits to a background role, but the wine remains scintillating and exuberantly energetic.

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