2019 Apatsagi Juhfark, Hungary

2019 Apatsagi Juhfark, Hungary

$29.99

Somló is Hungary’s smallest appellation and is the result of
the erosion of ancient lava flows. A lone volcanic butte. Now
dormant, its slopes of ancient sea sediment, hardened lava,
and basalt are home to some of Hungary’s steepest, most
densely planted vineyards. Driving up to Somló from Lake
Balaton, it’s like seeing an island rise up from the ocean’s
horizon. The oldest writings mentioning the wine of Somló date
back to 1093 and viticulture all the way back to the Romans.
Hungarian Kings bought vineyards here, Maria Theresa and
Queen Victoria both praised the wines, and insurgent
Hungarian troops fighting against the Habsburgs would solute
the vineyards as they marched past at the end of the 17th
century. In 1752, local laws stated that if you were found
adding water to wine, expect 25 lashings as the minimum
punishment. If you were found to be labeling wine as Somló
but using other fruit sources, you would be banned from
making wine permanently and might even have your property
confiscated. Upon our last visit we were fortunate enough to
run into Zoltán Balogh from Apátsági Winery. Their estate and
cellar were originally owned by the Benedictine Pannonhalma
Archabbey. After WWII, the land was expropriated and
redistributed during Communism. It was brought back to life
and replanted in 2001 with 5 people including the grandson of
the last winemaker before the war. Zoltán’s grandparents were
also local winemakers on the hill.

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