Château de Béru challenges everything we know about Chablis.

In an appellation infamously known for conventional farming, it's one of two certified Biodynamic estates. Where producers compete to get holdings within the same set of Crus, Béru's top wine (from the village of, yes, 'Béru') is from a walled monopole all their own.

And, when you taste the distinctly delicious wines – a low intervention style not afraid of élevage in wood or oxygen – it becomes clear that Béru is a producer without reference.

Yes, the below set of wines is from Chablis. But, they are entirely of Château de Béru and their special corner in the appellation.

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THE HISTORY

This singular estate actually represents a newer chapter in a multigeneration family château's 400+ year history. After centuries of viticulture, the vineyards were abandoned post-phylloxera; until a century later when Éric de Béru boldly replanted 15 hectares surrounding the family home in 1987.

But, the estate really took its current shape almost 20 years ago, when his daughter Athénaïs de Béru took over alongside her mother, Laurence.

Organic farming began immediately in 2005, and by 2010 the entire estate was impressively Demeter-certified. The Cistercian-era cellar has been restored to its original purpose, along with low-intervention, natural winemaking. Truly, Béru is operating in a way that honors the beautiful lunar calendar painted on the wall of the château (which incredibly, was painted in the 15th century).

THE WINES

Unlike many in Chablis – with the exception of names like Raveneau and Dauvissat – Athénaïs is not shy of oxygen and élevage. She let the wines take their natural shape during élevage, never blocking malo. And really unlike anyone, she doesn’t mind experimenting with maceration and atypically seen vessels like amphora.

ATHÉNAÏS CUVÉES

This is a closely-watched négoce line which focuses on other organic vineyards in the region; as of the most current release, every site was either certified organic or in the process of certification.

The wines are made almost exactly the same way as the domaine but, often, with varietals and terroirs not seen at Béru itself. The Chardonnay-based wines are a great way to experience her work without having to leap for the more expensive estate wines.

2022 Château de Béru 'Les vins d'Athénaïs' Bourgogne Blanc $45
2022 Château de Béru 'Les vins d'Athénaïs' Bourgogne Aligoté $46
2021 Château de Béru Athénaïs Bourgogne Aligoté 'Maceration' $75
2022 Château de Béru Athénaïs 'AmalGamay' VDF Rouge $37
2021 Château de Béru Athénaïs d'Auxerre Rouge (Pinot Noir) $52
2021 Château de Béru Athénaïs 'Ariane' VDF (Aligoté/Chardonnay/Pinot Noir) $60

ESTATE WINES

Much of Béru's holdings surround their historic home and winery. Which means that after hand-harvesting in small bins, the fruit is almost immediately in the winery; providing clean, whole bunches which then see a slow, gentle pressing that allows for oxygen and skin phenolics to inform the wine from the get-go.

Does it get more freshly pressed? 📷 via @iloveclosberu

The top wine is of course from their monopole, Clos Béru, which shares its wall with the eponymous hilltop village. A clos since the 12th century, it was replanted as part of Éric’s work in the late ‘80s.

Each cuvée below is distinct but, there is a quiet power across the range. Something we really only see from the very top growers of Chablis.

2020 Château de Béru Chablis 'Clos Béru' Monopole $120
2022 Château de Béru Chablis 'Terroirs de Béru' $48
2022 Château de Béru Chablis 'Montserre' $70
2022 Château de Béru Chablis 'Côte Aux Prêtres' $70

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